Choosing the right elbows and connectors is crucial for a successful plumbing or piping project, whether youre a seasoned professional or tackling a DIY home improvement. Its not as simple as grabbing the first fitting you see; the wrong choice can lead to leaks, reduced efficiency, and even structural problems down the line. So, how do you navigate the maze of options and ensure a tight, reliable connection?
First, consider the material. Copper, PVC, PEX – each has its own strengths and weaknesses and requires specific connectors. Mixing materials can create corrosion issues, so stick with the same type throughout your system. For example, using a copper elbow with PEX tubing requires a specialized fitting designed for that transition.
Next, think about the angle. Need a sharp 90-degree turn? A 45-degree bend to navigate around an obstacle? Perhaps a sweeping curve for smoother flow? Elbows come in a variety of angles to suit different configurations. Choosing the correct angle ensures a neat, professional installation and minimizes stress on the pipes.
Dont forget about the connection type. Threaded fittings are common for metal pipes, while solvent welding is often used with PVC. Push-fit connectors offer a quick and easy solution, but they might not be suitable for all applications. Understanding the different connection methods and their compatibility with your chosen material is essential.
Finally, size matters. Pipes and fittings are measured by their diameter, and using mismatched sizes will result in a leaky connection. Double-check the measurements of your pipes and choose elbows and connectors that match precisely. Its always a good idea to have a few extra fittings on hand in case of mistakes or unexpected challenges.
Choosing the right elbows and connectors might seem like a small detail, but its a critical step in any plumbing or piping project. By taking the time to consider the material, angle, connection type, and size, you can ensure a secure, efficient, and long-lasting system. And thats something worth taking pride in.
Proper Techniques for Connecting Elbows and Connectors
Elbows and connectors are essential components in many systems, from plumbing and electrical to HVAC and automotive. Their purpose is simple: to change the direction of flow or connect different parts of a system. However, improper connection can lead to leaks, shorts, or system failures. Getting it right is crucial for both functionality and safety.
The first step to a successful connection is selecting the right components. Make sure the elbow or connector is compatible with the type and size of tubing or wiring being used. Using mismatched parts can create weak points prone to failure. For example, forcing a larger diameter pipe into a smaller elbow will likely damage the seal and cause leaks. Similarly, using a connector not rated for the voltage or amperage of an electrical system can lead to overheating and fire hazards.
Once you have the correct parts, preparation is key. For pipes, ensure the ends are clean, smooth, and free of burrs. A pipe cutter creates a cleaner cut than a saw, minimizing the risk of leaks. For electrical connections, strip the wire insulation to the correct length, ensuring a clean cut without nicking the wire strands. This allows for a solid connection and prevents stray strands from causing shorts.
The actual connection process varies depending on the specific components. Threaded connections require tightening to the correct torque to create a secure seal without damaging the threads. Over-tightening can lead to cracks, while under-tightening can cause leaks. Compression fittings rely on a ferrule being compressed onto the tubing by a nut, creating a watertight seal. Ensure the nut is tightened sufficiently to compress the ferrule, but avoid over-tightening, which can damage the tubing. Soldering copper pipes requires proper heating and application of solder to create a strong, leak-proof joint. For electrical connections, ensure a solid connection between the wires and the connector, often achieved through crimping or soldering.
Finally, always test the connection after installation. For plumbing, this might involve pressurizing the system and checking for leaks. For electrical connections, use a multimeter to verify continuity and ensure there are no shorts. Taking the time to test ensures the connection is secure and the system will function as intended.
By following these proper techniques for connecting elbows and connectors, you can ensure the integrity and longevity of your systems, preventing costly repairs and potential safety hazards down the line. Remember, a little attention to detail during installation can save a lot of trouble in the long run.
Elbows and connectors – those humble plumbing fittings – seem simple enough, but theyre often the source of leaks, weak points, and general frustration if not used correctly. Here are a few common mistakes to avoid, helping you achieve a leak-free and long-lasting plumbing system.
One frequent error is using the wrong connector for the pipe material. You cant just mix and match! Copper, PVC, and PEX all require specific fittings. Using a PVC connector on a copper pipe, for instance, can lead to corrosion and leaks down the line. Always double-check compatibility before making a connection. Similarly, using the wrong size fitting is another common pitfall. Forcing a smaller pipe into a larger fitting, or vice-versa, compromises the seal and creates a weak point. Always measure your pipes carefully and choose the corresponding fitting size.
Overtightening is a surprisingly common mistake. While a tight seal is essential, cranking down too hard on a fitting can damage the threads or even crack the fitting itself, especially with plastic connectors. Hand-tighten the fitting, then use a wrench for another quarter to half turn, depending on the material. If you feel resistance, stop! Youve likely tightened it enough. Under-tightening, of course, is also a problem. A loose connection is an obvious invitation to leaks.
Another mistake is neglecting to use sealant or tape. Teflon tape is your friend for threaded connections. Wrap it clockwise around the male threads a few times to ensure a watertight seal. For push-fit connections, make sure the pipe is fully inserted and the connection is secure. Dont forget to check for leaks after completing the connection. A little water now saves a lot of headache later.
Finally, dont forget about proper support. Especially with larger diameter pipes or longer runs, supporting the pipes with straps or clamps prevents stress on the connections. This is particularly important with heavier materials like copper. A sagging pipe puts extra strain on the elbows and connectors, increasing the risk of leaks and breaks.
By avoiding these common mistakes, you can ensure your plumbing projects are successful and leak-free. Remember to use the correct fittings for your pipe material, dont over or under-tighten, use appropriate sealant, and provide adequate support. A little attention to detail goes a long way in preventing plumbing problems down the road.
Troubleshooting elbow and connector issues can be a frustrating but necessary part of working with pipes, tubes, and hoses. Whether youre dealing with plumbing, electrical conduit, or automotive systems, a leaky or poorly fitted connection can lead to bigger problems down the line. So, lets dive into some common issues and how to fix them.
One of the most frequent culprits is a simple bad seal. This can be caused by a number of things: a damaged O-ring, a cracked or warped connector, or even just insufficient tightening. Before you tear everything apart, check the obvious – is the connection tight enough? Use the appropriate wrench and make sure its snug, but dont overtighten, especially with plastic fittings. If its still leaking, inspect the O-ring or gasket. These small, but crucial, components can dry out, crack, or become dislodged. Replacing them is usually a cheap and easy fix.
Another common issue is misalignment. If the pipes or tubes arent properly aligned, the connector wont be able to create a proper seal. This is often the case with elbows, where even a slight deviation can cause problems. Make sure the ends of the pipes are clean and square, and try to get them as straight as possible before tightening the connector. Sometimes, it helps to loosen the surrounding connections to give yourself a little more wiggle room.
Sometimes the problem isnt the connection itself, but the material its connecting. If the pipe or tube is damaged or corroded, it wont matter how good the connector is. Check for cracks, dents, or significant corrosion. If the damage is severe, youll likely need to replace the affected section.
Finally, consider the type of connector youre using. Is it the right one for the job? Using the wrong size or type of connector is a recipe for disaster. Make sure the connector is compatible with the materials youre working with (e.g., plastic, metal) and that its rated for the pressure and temperature of the system.
Troubleshooting elbow and connector issues often involves a bit of detective work. By systematically checking for common problems like bad seals, misalignment, damaged materials, and incorrect connector types, you can usually pinpoint the source of the leak or poor connection and get things flowing smoothly again. And remember, a little preventative maintenance, like regularly checking and replacing O-rings, can save you a lot of headaches in the long run.
Indoor air quality (IAQ) is the air quality within buildings and structures. Poor indoor air quality due to indoor air pollution is known to affect the health, comfort, and well-being of building occupants. It has also been linked to sick building syndrome, respiratory issues, reduced productivity, and impaired learning in schools. Common pollutants of indoor air include: secondhand tobacco smoke, air pollutants from indoor combustion, radon, molds and other allergens, carbon monoxide, volatile organic compounds, legionella and other bacteria, asbestos fibers, carbon dioxide,[1] ozone and particulates.
Source control, filtration, and the use of ventilation to dilute contaminants are the primary methods for improving indoor air quality. Although ventilation is an integral component of maintaining good indoor air quality, it may not be satisfactory alone.[2] In scenarios where outdoor pollution would deteriorate indoor air quality, other treatment devices such as filtration may also be necessary.[3]
IAQ is evaluated through collection of air samples, monitoring human exposure to pollutants, analysis of building surfaces, and computer modeling of air flow inside buildings. IAQ is part of indoor environmental quality (IEQ), along with other factors that exert an influence on physical and psychological aspects of life indoors (e.g., lighting, visual quality, acoustics, and thermal comfort).[4]
Indoor air pollution is a major health hazard in developing countries and is commonly referred to as "household air pollution" in that context.[5] It is mostly relating to cooking and heating methods by burning biomass fuel, in the form of wood, charcoal, dung, and crop residue, in indoor environments that lack proper ventilation. Millions of people, primarily women and children, face serious health risks. In total, about three billion people in developing countries are affected by this problem. The World Health Organization (WHO) estimates that cooking-related indoor air pollution causes 3.8 million annual deaths.[6] The Global Burden of Disease study estimated the number of deaths in 2017 at 1.6 million.[7]
For health reasons it is crucial to breathe clean air, free from chemicals and toxicants as much as possible. It is estimated that humans spend approximately 90% of their lifetime indoors[8] and that indoor air pollution in some places can be much worse than that of the ambient air.[9][10]
Various factors contribute to high concentrations of pollutants indoors, ranging from influx of pollutants from external sources, off-gassing by furniture, furnishings including carpets, indoor activities (cooking, cleaning, painting, smoking, etc. in homes to using office equipment in offices), thermal comfort parameters such as temperature, humidity, airflow and physio-chemical properties of the indoor air.[citation needed] Air pollutants can enter a building in many ways, including through open doors or windows. Poorly maintained air conditioners/ventilation systems can harbor mold, bacteria, and other contaminants, which are then circulated throughout indoor spaces, contributing to respiratory problems and allergies.
There have been many debates among indoor air quality specialists about the proper definition of indoor air quality and specifically what constitutes "acceptable" indoor air quality.
IAQ is significant for human health as humans spend a large proportion of their time in indoor environments. Americans and Europeans on average spend approximately 90% of their time indoors.[11][12]
The World Health Organization (WHO) estimates that 3.2 million people die prematurely every year from illnesses attributed to indoor air pollution caused by indoor cooking, with over 237 thousand of these being children under 5. These include around an eighth of all global ischaemic heart disease, stroke, and lung cancer deaths. Overall the WHO estimated that poor indoor air quality resulted in the loss of 86 million healthy life years in 2019.[13]
Studies in the UK and Europe show exposure to indoor air pollutants, chemicals and biological contamination can irritate the upper airway system, trigger or exacerbate asthma and other respiratory or cardiovascular conditions, and may even have carcinogenic effects.[14][15][16][17][18][19]
Poor indoor air quality can cause sick building syndrome. Symptoms include burning of the eyes, scratchy throat, blocked nose, and headaches.[20]
Indoor combustion, such as for cooking or heating, is a major cause of indoor air pollution and causes significant health harms and premature deaths. Hydrocarbon fires cause air pollution. Pollution is caused by both biomass and fossil fuels of various types, but some forms of fuels are more harmful than others.
Indoor fire can produce black carbon particles, nitrogen oxides, sulfur oxides, and mercury compounds, among other emissions.[21] Around 3 billion people cook over open fires or on rudimentary cook stoves. Cooking fuels are coal, wood, animal dung, and crop residues.[22] IAQ is a particular concern in low and middle-income countries where such practices are common.[23]
Cooking using natural gas (also called fossil gas, methane gas or simply gas) is associated with poorer indoor air quality. Combustion of gas produces nitrogen dioxide and carbon monoxide, and can lead to increased concentrations of nitrogen dioxide throughout the home environment which is linked to respiratory issues and diseases.[24][25]
One of the most acutely toxic indoor air contaminants is carbon monoxide (CO), a colourless and odourless gas that is a by-product of incomplete combustion. Carbon monoxide may be emitted from tobacco smoke and generated from malfunctioning fuel burning stoves (wood, kerosene, natural gas, propane) and fuel burning heating systems (wood, oil, natural gas) and from blocked flues connected to these appliances.[26] In developed countries the main sources of indoor CO emission come from cooking and heating devices that burn fossil fuels and are faulty, incorrectly installed or poorly maintained.[27] Appliance malfunction may be due to faulty installation or lack of maintenance and proper use.[26] In low- and middle-income countries the most common sources of CO in homes are burning biomass fuels and cigarette smoke.[27]
Health effects of CO poisoning may be acute or chronic and can occur unintentionally or intentionally (self-harm). By depriving the brain of oxygen, acute exposure to carbon monoxide may have effects on the neurological system (headache, nausea, dizziness, alteration in consciousness and subjective weakness), the cardiovascular and respiratory systems (myocardial infarction, shortness of breath, or rapid breathing, respiratory failure). Acute exposure can also lead to long-term neurological effects such as cognitive and behavioural changes. Severe CO poisoning may lead to unconsciousness, coma and death. Chronic exposure to low concentrations of carbon monoxide may lead to lethargy, headaches, nausea, flu-like symptoms and neuropsychological and cardiovascular issues.[28][26]
The WHO recommended levels of indoor CO exposure in 24 hours is 4 mg/m3.[29] Acute exposure should not exceed 10 mg/m3 in 8 hours, 35 mg/m3 in one hour and 100 mg/m3 in 15 minutes.[27]
Secondhand smoke is tobacco smoke which affects people other than the 'active' smoker. It is made up of the exhaled smoke (15%) and mostly of smoke coming from the burning end of the cigarette, known as sidestream smoke (85%).[30]
Secondhand smoke contains more than 7000 chemicals, of which hundreds are harmful to health.[30] Secondhand tobacco smoke includes both a gaseous and a particulate materials which, with particular hazards arising from levels of carbon monoxide and very small particulates (fine particulate matter, especially PM2.5 and PM10) which get into the bronchioles and alveoles in the lung.[31] Inhaling secondhand smoke on multiple occasions can cause asthma, pneumonia, lung cancer, and sudden infant death syndrome, among other conditions.[32]
Thirdhand smoke (THS) refers to chemicals that settle on objects and bodies indoors after smoking. Exposure to thirdhand smoke can happen even after the actual cigarette smoke is not present anymore and affect those entering the indoor environment much later. Toxic substances of THS can react with other chemicals in the air and produce new toxic chemicals that are otherwise not present in cigarettes.[33]
The only certain method to improve indoor air quality as regards secondhand smoke is to eliminate smoking indoors.[34] Indoor e-cigarette use also increases home particulate matter concentrations.[35]
Atmospheric particulate matter, also known as particulates, can be found indoors and can affect the health of occupants. Indoor particulate matter can come from different indoor sources or be created as secondary aerosols through indoor gas-to-particle reactions. They can also be outdoor particles that enter indoors. These indoor particles vary widely in size, ranging from nanomet (nanoparticles/ultrafine particles emitted from combustion sources) to micromet (resuspensed dust).[36] Particulate matter can also be produced through cooking activities. Frying produces higher concentrations than boiling or grilling and cooking meat produces higher concentrations than cooking vegetables.[37] Preparing a Thanksgiving dinner can produce very high concentrations of particulate matter, exceeding 300 μg/m3.[38]
Particulates can penetrate deep into the lungs and brain from blood streams, causing health problems such as heart disease, lung disease, cancer and preterm birth.[39]
Volatile organic compounds (VOCs) include a variety of chemicals, some of which may have short- and long-term adverse health effects. There are numerous sources of VOCs indoors, which means that their concentrations are consistently higher indoors (up to ten times higher) than outdoors.[40] Some VOCs are emitted directly indoors, and some are formed through the subsequent chemical reactions that can occur in the gas-phase, or on surfaces.[41][42] VOCs presenting health hazards include benzene, formaldehyde, tetrachloroethylene and trichloroethylene.[43]
VOCs are emitted by thousands of indoor products. Examples include: paints, varnishes, waxes and lacquers, paint strippers, cleaning and personal care products, pesticides, building materials and furnishings, office equipment such as copiers and printers, correction fluids and carbonless copy paper, graphics and craft materials including glues and adhesives, permanent markers, and photographic solutions.[44] Chlorinated drinking water releases chloroform when hot water is used in the home. Benzene is emitted from fuel stored in attached garages.
Human activities such as cooking and cleaning can also emit VOCs.[45][46] Cooking can release long-chain aldehydes and alkanes when oil is heated and terpenes can be released when spices are prepared and/or cooked.[45] Leaks of natural gas from cooking appliances have been linked to elevated levels of VOCs including benzene in homes in the USA.[47] Cleaning products contain a range of VOCs, including monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, alcohols and esters. Once released into the air, VOCs can undergo reactions with ozone and hydroxyl radicals to produce other VOCs, such as formaldehyde.[46]
Health effects include eye, nose, and throat irritation; headaches, loss of coordination, nausea; and damage to the liver, kidney, and central nervous system.[48]
Testing emissions from building materials used indoors has become increasingly common for floor coverings, paints, and many other important indoor building materials and finishes.[49] Indoor materials such as gypsum boards or carpet act as VOC 'sinks', by trapping VOC vapors for extended periods of time, and releasing them by outgassing. The VOCs can also undergo transformation at the surface through interaction with ozone.[42] In both cases, these delayed emissions can result in chronic and low-level exposures to VOCs.[50]
Several initiatives aim to reduce indoor air contamination by limiting VOC emissions from products. There are regulations in France and in Germany, and numerous voluntary ecolabels and rating systems containing low VOC emissions criteria such as EMICODE,[51] M1,[52] Blue Angel[53] and Indoor Air Comfort[54] in Europe, as well as California Standard CDPH Section 01350[55] and several others in the US. Due to these initiatives an increasing number of low-emitting products became available to purchase.
At least 18 microbial VOCs (MVOCs) have been characterised[56][57] including 1-octen-3-ol (mushroom alcohol), 3-Methylfuran, 2-pentanol, 2-hexanone, 2-heptanone, 3-octanone, 3-octanol, 2-octen-1-ol, 1-octene, 2-pentanone, 2-nonanone, borneol, geosmin, 1-butanol, 3-methyl-1-butanol, 3-methyl-2-butanol, and thujopsene. The last four are products of Stachybotrys chartarum, which has been linked with sick building syndrome.[56]
Many common building materials used before 1975 contain asbestos, such as some floor tiles, ceiling tiles, shingles, fireproofing, heating systems, pipe wrap, taping muds, mastics, and other insulation materials. Normally, significant releases of asbestos fiber do not occur unless the building materials are disturbed, such as by cutting, sanding, drilling, or building remodelling. Removal of asbestos-containing materials is not always optimal because the fibers can be spread into the air during the removal process. A management program for intact asbestos-containing materials is often recommended instead.
When asbestos-containing material is damaged or disintegrates, microscopic fibers are dispersed into the air. Inhalation of asbestos fibers over long exposure times is associated with increased incidence of lung cancer, mesothelioma, and asbestosis. The risk of lung cancer from inhaling asbestos fibers is significantly greater for smokers. The symptoms of disease do not usually appear until about 20 to 30 years after the first exposure to asbestos.
Although all asbestos is hazardous, products that are friable, e.g. sprayed coatings and insulation, pose a significantly higher hazard as they are more likely to release fibers to the air.[58]
Microplastic is a type of airborne particulates and is found to prevail in air.[59][60][61][62] A 2017 study found indoor airborne microfiber concentrations between 1.0 and 60.0 microfibers per cubic meter (33% of which were found to be microplastics).[63] Airborne microplastic dust can be produced during renovation, building, bridge and road reconstruction projects[64] and the use of power tools.[65]
Indoors ozone (O3) is produced by certain high-voltage electric devices (such as air ionizers), and as a by-product of other types of pollution. It appears in lower concentrations indoors than outdoors, usually at 0.2-0.7 of the outdoor concentration.[66] Typically, most ozone is lost to surface reactions indoors, rather than to reactions in air, due to the large surface to volume ratios found indoors.[67]
Outdoor air used for ventilation may have sufficient ozone to react with common indoor pollutants as well as skin oils and other common indoor air chemicals or surfaces. Particular concern is warranted when using "green" cleaning products based on citrus or terpene extracts, because these chemicals react very quickly with ozone to form toxic and irritating chemicals[46] as well as fine and ultrafine particles.[68] Ventilation with outdoor air containing elevated ozone concentrations may complicate remediation attempts.[69]
The WHO standard for ozone concentration is 60 μg/m3 for long-term exposure and 100 μg/m3 as the maximum average over an 8-hour period.[29] The EPA standard for ozone concentration is 0.07 ppm average over an 8-hour period.[70]
Occupants in buildings can be exposed to fungal spores, cell fragments, or mycotoxins which can arise from a host of means, but there are two common classes: (a) excess moisture induced growth of mold colonies and (b) natural substances released into the air such as animal dander and plant pollen.[71]
While mold growth is associated with high moisture levels,[72] it is likely to grow when a combination of favorable conditions arises. As well as high moisture levels, these conditions include suitable temperatures, pH and nutrient sources.[73] Mold grows primarily on surfaces, and it reproduces by releasing spores, which can travel and settle in different locations. When these spores experience appropriate conditions, they can germinate and lead to mycelium growth.[74] Different mold species favor different environmental conditions to germinate and grow, some being more hydrophilic (growing at higher levels of relative humidity) and other more xerophilic (growing at levels of relative humidity as low as 75–80%).[74][75]
Mold growth can be inhibited by keeping surfaces at conditions that are further from condensation, with relative humidity levels below 75%. This usually translates to a relative humidity of indoor air below 60%, in agreement with the guidelines for thermal comfort that recommend a relative humidity between 40 and 60 %. Moisture buildup in buildings may arise from water penetrating areas of the building envelope or fabric, from plumbing leaks, rainwater or groundwater penetration, or from condensation due to improper ventilation, insufficient heating or poor thermal quality of the building envelope.[76] Even something as simple as drying clothes indoors on radiators can increase the risk of mold growth, if the humidity produced is not able to escape the building via ventilation.[77]
Mold predominantly affects the airways and lungs. Known effects of mold on health include asthma development and exacerbation,[78] with children and elderly at greater risk of more severe health impacts.[79] Infants in homes with mold have a much greater risk of developing asthma and allergic rhinitis.[80][71] More than half of adult workers in moldy or humid buildings suffer from nasal or sinus symptoms due to mold exposure.[71] Some varieties of mold contain toxic compounds (mycotoxins). However, exposure to hazardous levels of mycotoxin via inhalation is not possible in most cases, as toxins are produced by the fungal body and are not at significant levels in the released spores.
Legionnaires' disease is caused by a waterborne bacterium Legionella that grows best in slow-moving or still, warm water. The primary route of exposure is through the creation of an aerosol effect, most commonly from evaporative cooling towers or showerheads. A common source of Legionella in commercial buildings is from poorly placed or maintained evaporative cooling towers, which often release water in an aerosol which may enter nearby ventilation intakes. Outbreaks in medical facilities and nursing homes, where patients are immuno-suppressed and immuno-weak, are the most commonly reported cases of Legionellosis. More than one case has involved outdoor fountains at public attractions. The presence of Legionella in commercial building water supplies is highly under-reported, as healthy people require heavy exposure to acquire infection.
Legionella testing typically involves collecting water samples and surface swabs from evaporative cooling basins, shower heads, faucets/taps, and other locations where warm water collects. The samples are then cultured and colony forming units (cfu) of Legionella are quantified as cfu/liter.
Legionella is a parasite of protozoans such as amoeba, and thus requires conditions suitable for both organisms. The bacterium forms a biofilm which is resistant to chemical and antimicrobial treatments, including chlorine. Remediation for Legionella outbreaks in commercial buildings vary, but often include very hot water flushes (160 °F (71 °C)), sterilisation of standing water in evaporative cooling basins, replacement of shower heads, and, in some cases, flushes of heavy metal salts. Preventive measures include adjusting normal hot water levels to allow for 120 °F (49 °C) at the tap, evaluating facility design layout, removing faucet aerators, and periodic testing in suspect areas.
There are many bacteria of health significance found in indoor air and on indoor surfaces. The role of microbes in the indoor environment is increasingly studied using modern gene-based analysis of environmental samples. Currently, efforts are under way to link microbial ecologists and indoor air scientists to forge new methods for analysis and to better interpret the results.[81]
A large fraction of the bacteria found in indoor air and dust are shed from humans. Among the most important bacteria known to occur in indoor air are Mycobacterium tuberculosis, Staphylococcus aureus, Streptococcus pneumoniae.[citation needed]
Viruses can also be a concern for indoor air quality. During the 2002–2004 SARS outbreak, virus-laden aerosols were found to have seeped into bathrooms from the bathroom floor drains, exacerbated by the draw of bathroom exhaust fans, resulting in the rapid spread of SARS in Amoy Gardens in Hong Kong.[82][83] Elsewhere in Hong Kong, SARS CoV RNA was found on the carpet and in the air intake vents of the Metropole Hotel, which showed that secondary environmental contamination could generate infectious aerosols and resulted in superspreading events.[84]
Humans are the main indoor source of carbon dioxide (CO2) in most buildings. Indoor CO2 levels are an indicator of the adequacy of outdoor air ventilation relative to indoor occupant density and metabolic activity.
Indoor CO2 levels above 500 ppm can lead to higher blood pressure and heart rate, and increased peripheral blood circulation.[85] With CO2 concentrations above 1000 ppm cognitive performance might be affected, especially when doing complex tasks, making decision making and problem solving slower but not less accurate.[86][87] However, evidence on the health effects of CO2 at lower concentrations is conflicting and it is difficult to link CO2 to health impacts at exposures below 5000 ppm – reported health outcomes may be due to the presence of human bioeffluents, and other indoor air pollutants related to inadequate ventilation.[88]
Indoor carbon dioxide concentrations can be used to evaluate the quality of a room or a building's ventilation.[89] To eliminate most complaints caused by CO2, the total indoor CO2 level should be reduced to a difference of no greater than 700 ppm above outdoor levels.[90] The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH) considers that indoor air concentrations of carbon dioxide that exceed 1000 ppm are a marker suggesting inadequate ventilation.[91] The UK standards for schools say that carbon dioxide levels of 800 ppm or lower indicate that the room is well-ventilated.[92] Regulations and standards from around the world show that CO2 levels below 1000 ppm represent good IAQ, between 1000 and 1500 ppm represent moderate IAQ and greater than 1500 ppm represent poor IAQ.[88]
Carbon dioxide concentrations in closed or confined rooms can increase to 1,000 ppm within 45 minutes of enclosure. For example, in a 3.5-by-4-metre (11 ft × 13 ft) sized office, atmospheric carbon dioxide increased from 500 ppm to over 1,000 ppm within 45 minutes of ventilation cessation and closure of windows and doors.[93]
Radon is an invisible, radioactive atomic gas that results from the radioactive decay of radium, which may be found in rock formations beneath buildings or in certain building materials themselves.
Radon is probably the most pervasive serious hazard for indoor air in the United States and Europe. It is a major cause of lung cancer, responsible for 3–14% of cases in countries, leading to tens of thousands of deaths.[94]
Radon gas enters buildings as a soil gas. As it is a heavy gas it will tend to accumulate at the lowest level. Radon may also be introduced into a building through drinking water particularly from bathroom showers. Building materials can be a rare source of radon, but little testing is carried out for stone, rock or tile products brought into building sites; radon accumulation is greatest for well insulated homes.[95] There are simple do-it-yourself kits for radon gas testing, but a licensed professional can also check homes.
The half-life for radon is 3.8 days, indicating that once the source is removed, the hazard will be greatly reduced within a few weeks. Radon mitigation methods include sealing concrete slab floors, basement foundations, water drainage systems, or by increasing ventilation.[96] They are usually cost effective and can greatly reduce or even eliminate the contamination and the associated health risks.[citation needed]
Radon is measured in picocuries per liter of air (pCi/L) or becquerel per cubic meter (Bq m-3). Both are measurements of radioactivity. The World Health Organization (WHO) sets the ideal indoor radon levels at 100 Bq/m-3.[97] In the United States, it is recommend to fix homes with radon levels at or above 4 pCi/L. At the same time it is also recommends that people think about fixing their homes for radon levels between 2 pCi/L and 4 pCi/L.[98] In the United Kingdom the ideal is presence of radon indoors is 100 Bq/m-3. Action needs to be taken in homes with 200 Bq/m−3 or more.[99]
Interactive maps of radon affected areas are available for various regions and countries of the world.[100][101][102]
Indoor air quality is linked inextricably to outdoor air quality. The Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) has varying scenarios that predict how the climate will change in the future.[103] Climate change can affect indoor air quality by increasing the level of outdoor air pollutants such as ozone and particulate matter, for example through emissions from wildfires caused by extreme heat and drought.[104][105] Numerous predictions for how indoor air pollutants will change have been made,[106][107][108][109] and models have attempted to predict how the forecasted IPCC scenarios will vary indoor air quality and indoor comfort parameters such as humidity and temperature.[110]
The net-zero challenge requires significant changes in the performance of both new and retrofitted buildings. However, increased energy efficient housing will trap pollutants inside, whether produced indoors or outdoors, and lead to an increase in human exposure.[111][112]
For occupational exposure, there are standards, which cover a wide range of chemicals, and applied to healthy adults who are exposed over time at workplaces (usually industrial environments).These are published by organisations such as Occupational Safety and Health Administration (OSHA), the National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health (NIOSH), the UK Health and Safety Executive (HSE).
There is no consensus globally about indoor air quality standards, or health-based guidelines. However, there are regulations from some individual countries and from health organisations. For example, the World Health Organization (WHO) has published health-based global air quality guidelines for the general population that are applicable both to outdoor and indoor air,[29] as well as the WHO IAQ guidelines for selected compounds,[113] whereas the UK Health Security Agency published IAQ guidelines for selected VOCs.[114] The Scientific and Technical Committee (STC34) of the International Society of Indoor Air Quality and Climate (ISIAQ) created an open database that collects indoor environmental quality guidelines worldwide.[115] The database is focused on indoor air quality (IAQ), but is currently extended to include standards, regulations, and guidelines related to ventilation, comfort, acoustics, and lighting.[116][117]
Since indoor air pollutants can adversely affect human health, it is important to have real-time indoor air quality assessment/monitoring system that can help not only in the improvement of indoor air quality but also help in detection of leaks, spills in a work environment and boost energy efficiency of buildings by providing real-time feedback to the heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) system(s).[118] Additionally, there have been enough studies that highlight the correlation between poor indoor air quality and loss of performance and productivity of workers in an office setting.[119]
Combining the Internet of Things (IoT) technology with real-time IAQ monitoring systems has tremendously gained momentum and popularity as interventions can be done based on the real-time sensor data and thus help in the IAQ improvement.[120]
Indoor air quality can be addressed, achieved or maintained during the design of new buildings or as mitigating measures in existing buildings. A hierarchy of measures has been proposed by the Institute of Air Quality Management. It emphasises removing pollutant sources, reducing emissions from any remaining sources, disrupting pathways between sources and the people exposed, protecting people from exposure to pollutants, and removing people from areas with poor air quality.[121]
A report assisted by the Institute for Occupational Safety and Health of the German Social Accident Insurance can support in the systematic investigation of individual health problems arising at indoor workplaces, and in the identification of practical solutions.[122]
Environmentally sustainable design concepts include aspects of commercial and residential heating, ventilation and air-conditioning (HVAC) technologies. Among several considerations, one of the topics attended to is the issue of indoor air quality throughout the design and construction stages of a building's life.[citation needed]
One technique to reduce energy consumption while maintaining adequate air quality, is demand-controlled ventilation. Instead of setting throughput at a fixed air replacement rate, carbon dioxide sensors are used to control the rate dynamically, based on the emissions of actual building occupants.[citation needed]
One way of quantitatively ensuring the health of indoor air is by the frequency of effective turnover of interior air by replacement with outside air. In the UK, for example, classrooms are required to have 2.5 outdoor air changes per hour. In halls, gym, dining, and physiotherapy spaces, the ventilation should be sufficient to limit carbon dioxide to 1,500 ppm. In the US, ventilation in classrooms is based on the amount of outdoor air per occupant plus the amount of outdoor air per unit of floor area, not air changes per hour. Since carbon dioxide indoors comes from occupants and outdoor air, the adequacy of ventilation per occupant is indicated by the concentration indoors minus the concentration outdoors. The value of 615 ppm above the outdoor concentration indicates approximately 15 cubic feet per minute of outdoor air per adult occupant doing sedentary office work where outdoor air contains over 400 ppm[123] (global average as of 2023). In classrooms, the requirements in the ASHRAE standard 62.1, Ventilation for Acceptable Indoor Air Quality, would typically result in about 3 air changes per hour, depending on the occupant density. As the occupants are not the only source of pollutants, outdoor air ventilation may need to be higher when unusual or strong sources of pollution exist indoors.
When outdoor air is polluted, bringing in more outdoor air can actually worsen the overall quality of the indoor air and exacerbate some occupant symptoms related to outdoor air pollution. Generally, outdoor country air is better than indoor city air.[citation needed]
The use of air filters can trap some of the air pollutants. Portable room air cleaners with HEPA filters can be used if ventilation is poor or outside air has high level of PM 2.5.[122] Air filters are used to reduce the amount of dust that reaches the wet coils.[citation needed] Dust can serve as food to grow molds on the wet coils and ducts and can reduce the efficiency of the coils.[citation needed]
The use of trickle vents on windows is also valuable to maintain constant ventilation. They can help prevent mold and allergen build up in the home or workplace. They can also reduce the spread of some respiratory infections.[124]
Moisture management and humidity control requires operating HVAC systems as designed. Moisture management and humidity control may conflict with efforts to conserve energy. For example, moisture management and humidity control requires systems to be set to supply make-up air at lower temperatures (design levels), instead of the higher temperatures sometimes used to conserve energy in cooling-dominated climate conditions. However, for most of the US and many parts of Europe and Japan, during the majority of hours of the year, outdoor air temperatures are cool enough that the air does not need further cooling to provide thermal comfort indoors.[citation needed] However, high humidity outdoors creates the need for careful attention to humidity levels indoors. High humidity give rise to mold growth and moisture indoors is associated with a higher prevalence of occupant respiratory problems.[citation needed]
The "dew point temperature" is an absolute measure of the moisture in air. Some facilities are being designed with dew points in the lower 50s °F, and some in the upper and lower 40s °F.[citation needed] Some facilities are being designed using desiccant wheels with gas-fired heaters to dry out the wheel enough to get the required dew points.[citation needed] On those systems, after the moisture is removed from the make-up air, a cooling coil is used to lower the temperature to the desired level.[citation needed]
Commercial buildings, and sometimes residential, are often kept under slightly positive air pressure relative to the outdoors to reduce infiltration. Limiting infiltration helps with moisture management and humidity control.
Dilution of indoor pollutants with outdoor air is effective to the extent that outdoor air is free of harmful pollutants. Ozone in outdoor air occurs indoors at reduced concentrations because ozone is highly reactive with many chemicals found indoors. The products of the reactions between ozone and many common indoor pollutants include organic compounds that may be more odorous, irritating, or toxic than those from which they are formed. These products of ozone chemistry include formaldehyde, higher molecular weight aldehydes, acidic aerosols, and fine and ultrafine particles, among others. The higher the outdoor ventilation rate, the higher the indoor ozone concentration and the more likely the reactions will occur, but even at low levels, the reactions will take place. This suggests that ozone should be removed from ventilation air, especially in areas where outdoor ozone levels are frequently high.
Houseplants together with the medium in which they are grown can reduce components of indoor air pollution, particularly volatile organic compounds (VOC) such as benzene, toluene, and xylene. Plants remove CO2 and release oxygen and water, although the quantitative impact for house plants is small. The interest in using potted plants for removing VOCs was sparked by a 1989 NASA study conducted in sealed chambers designed to replicate the environment on space stations. However, these results suffered from poor replication[125] and are not applicable to typical buildings, where outdoor-to-indoor air exchange already removes VOCs at a rate that could only be matched by the placement of 10–1000 plants/m2 of a building's floor space.[126]
Plants also appear to reduce airborne microbes and molds, and to increase humidity.[127] However, the increased humidity can itself lead to increased levels of mold and even VOCs.[128]
Since extremely high humidity is associated with increased mold growth, allergic responses, and respiratory responses, the presence of additional moisture from houseplants may not be desirable in all indoor settings if watering is done inappropriately.[129]
The topic of IAQ has become popular due to the greater awareness of health problems caused by mold and triggers to asthma and allergies.
In the US, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has developed an "IAQ Tools for Schools" program to help improve the indoor environmental conditions in educational institutions. The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health conducts Health Hazard Evaluations (HHEs) in workplaces at the request of employees, authorized representative of employees, or employers, to determine whether any substance normally found in the place of employment has potentially toxic effects, including indoor air quality.[130]
A variety of scientists work in the field of indoor air quality, including chemists, physicists, mechanical engineers, biologists, bacteriologists, epidemiologists, and computer scientists. Some of these professionals are certified by organizations such as the American Industrial Hygiene Association, the American Indoor Air Quality Council and the Indoor Environmental Air Quality Council.
In the UK, under the Department for Environment Food and Rural Affairs, the Air Quality Expert Group considers current knowledge on indoor air quality and provides advice to government and devolved administration ministers.[131]
At the international level, the International Society of Indoor Air Quality and Climate (ISIAQ), formed in 1991, organizes two major conferences, the Indoor Air and the Healthy Buildings series.[132]
According to the Global Burden of Disease study 1.6 million people died prematurely in 2017 as a result of indoor air pollution ... But it's worth noting that the WHO publishes a substantially larger number of indoor air pollution deaths..
Burning of natural gas not only produces a variety of gases such as sulfur oxides, mercury compounds, and particulate matter but also leads to the production of nitrogen oxides, primarily nitrogen dioxide...The burning of biomass fuel or any other fossil fuel increases the concentration of black carbon in the air
MPs have been found in water and soil, and recent research is exposing the vast amount of them in ambient and indoor air.
environmental contamination with SARS CoV RNA was identified on the carpet in front of the index case-patient's room and 3 nearby rooms (and on their door frames but not inside the rooms) and in the air intake vents near the centrally located elevators ... secondary infections occurred not in guest rooms but in the common areas of the ninth floor, such as the corridor or elevator hall. These areas could have been contaminated through body fluids (e.g., vomitus, expectorated sputum), respiratory droplets, or suspended small-particle aerosols generated by the index case-patient; other guests were then infected by fomites or aerosols while passing through these same areas. Efficient spread of SARS CoV through small-particle aerosols was observed in several superspreading events in health care settings, during an airplane flight, and in an apartment complex (12–14,16–19). This process of environmental contamination that generated infectious aerosols likely best explains the pattern of disease transmission at the Hotel Metropole.
cite journal
Ducts are conduits or passages used in heating, ventilation, and air conditioning (HVAC) to deliver and remove air. The needed airflows include, for example, supply air, return air, and exhaust air.[1] Ducts commonly also deliver ventilation air as part of the supply air. As such, air ducts are one method of ensuring acceptable indoor air quality as well as thermal comfort.
A duct system is also called ductwork. Planning (laying out), sizing, optimizing, detailing, and finding the pressure losses through a duct system is called duct design.[2]
Ducts can be made out of the following materials: They are
Galvanized mild steel is the standard and most common material used in fabricating ductwork because the zinc coating of this metal prevents rusting and avoids cost of painting.[3] For insulation purposes, metal ducts are typically lined with faced fiberglass blankets (duct liner) or wrapped externally with fiberglass blankets (duct wrap). When necessary, a double walled duct is used. This will usually have an inner perforated liner, then a 1–2" (2.5-5 cm) layer of fiberglass insulation contained inside an outer solid pipe.
Rectangular ductwork commonly is fabricated to suit by specialized metal shops. For ease of handling, it most often comes in 4' (120 cm) sections (or joints). Round duct is made using a continuous spiral forming machine which can make round duct in nearly any diameter when using the right forming die and to any length to suit, but the most common stock sizes range evenly from 4" to 24" (10-60 cm) with 6"-12" (15-30 cm) being most commonly used. Stock pipe is usually sold in 10' (300 cm) joints. There are also 5' (150 cm) joints of the non-spiral type pipe available, which is commonly used in residential applications.
Aluminium ductwork is lightweight and quick to install. Also, custom or special shapes of ducts can be easily fabricated in the shop or on site.
The ductwork construction starts with the tracing of the duct outline onto the aluminium preinsulated panel. The parts are then typically cut at 45°, bent if required to obtain the different fittings (i.e. elbows, tapers) and finally assembled with glue. Aluminium tape is applied to all seams where the external surface of the aluminium foil has been cut. A variety of flanges are available to suit various installation requirements. All internal joints are sealed with sealant.
Aluminum is also used to make round spiral duct, but it is much less common than galvanized steel.
Traditionally, air ductwork is made of sheet metal which was installed first and then lagged with insulation. Today, a sheet metal fabrication shop would commonly fabricate the galvanized steel duct and insulate with duct wrap prior to installation. However, ductwork manufactured from rigid insulation panels does not need any further insulation and can be installed in a single step. Both polyurethane and phenolic foam panels are manufactured with factory applied aluminium facings on both sides. The thickness of the aluminium foil can vary from 25 micrometres for indoor use to 200 micrometers for external use or for higher mechanical characteristics. There are various types of rigid polyurethane foam panels available, including water formulated panel for which the foaming process is obtained through the use of water and CO2 instead of CFC, HCFC, HFC and HC gasses. Most manufacturers of rigid polyurethane or phenolic foam panels use pentane as foaming agent instead of the aforementioned gasses.
A rigid phenolic insulation ductwork system is listed as a class 1[clarification needed] air duct to UL 181 Standard for Safety.
Fiberglass duct board panels provide built-in thermal insulation and the interior surface absorbs [sound], helping to provide quiet operation of the HVAC system.
The duct board is formed by sliding a specially-designed knife along the board using a straightedge as a guide. The knife automatically trims out a groove with 45° sides which does not quite penetrate the entire depth of the duct board, thus providing a thin section acting as a hinge. The duct board can then be folded along the groove to produce 90° folds, making the rectangular duct shape in the fabricator's desired size. The duct is then closed with outward-clinching staples and special aluminum or similar metal-backed tape.
Flexible ducts (also known as flex) are typically made of flexible plastic over a metal wire coil to shape a tube. They have a variety of configurations. In the United States, the insulation is usually glass wool, but other markets such as Australia, use both polyester fiber and glass wool for thermal insulation. A protective layer surrounds the insulation, and is usually composed of polyethylene or metalized PET. It is commonly sold as boxes containing 25' (7.5 m) of duct compressed into a 5' (1.5 m) length. It is available in diameters ranging from as small as 4" (10 cm) to as big as 18" (45 cm), but the most commonly used are even sizes ranging from 6" to 12" (15 to 30 cm).
Flexible duct is very convenient for attaching supply air outlets to the rigid ductwork. It is commonly attached with long zip ties or metal band claps. However, the pressure loss is higher than for most other types of ducts. As such, designers and installers attempt to keep their installed lengths (runs) short, e.g. less than 15 feet (5 m) or so, and try to minimize turns. Kinks in flexible ducting must be avoided. Some flexible duct markets prefer to avoid using flexible duct on the return air portions of HVAC systems, however flexible duct can tolerate moderate negative pressures. The UL181 test requires a negative pressure of 200 Pa.
To use flexible ducting in a system, make sure to pull the duct tight so you get the full internal diameter. This reduces resistance and improves airflow, as well as ventilation efficiency. Minimize bends and kinks as much as possible, since they can affect how well the airstream flows through the ductwork.
There are a few types of flexible ducting - Polyurethane (PU), Aluminium & Aluminium insulated, Acoustic and Rectangular flexible ducting, as well as semi- and combi-flex.
This is actually an air distribution device and is not intended as a conduit for conditioned air. The term fabric duct is therefore somewhat misleading; fabric air dispersion system would be the more definitive name. However, as it often replaces hard ductwork, it is easy to perceive it simply as a duct. Usually made of polyester material, fabric ducts can provide a more even distribution and blending of the conditioned air in a given space than a conventional duct system. They may also be manufactured with vents or orifices.
Fabric ducts are available in various colors, with options for silk screening or other forms of decoration, or in porous (air-permeable) and non-porous fabric. The determination which fabric is appropriate (i.e. air-permeable or not) can be made by considering if the application would require an insulated metal duct. If so, an air-permeable fabric is recommended because it will not commonly create condensation on its surface and can therefore be used where air is supplied below the dew point. Material that eliminates moisture may be healthier for the occupants. It can also be treated with an anti-microbial agent to inhibit bacterial growth. Porous material also tends to require less maintenance as it repels dust and other airborne contaminants.
Fabric made of more than 50% recycled material is also available, allowing it to be certified as green product. The material can also be fire retardant, which means that the fabric can still burn, but will extinguish when the heat source is removed.
Fabric ducts are not rated for use in ceilings or concealed attic spaces. However, products for use in raised floor applications are available. Fabric ducting usually weighs less than other conventional ducting and will therefore put less stress on the building's structure. The lower weight allows for easier installation.
Fabric ducts require a minimum of certain range of airflow and static pressure in order for it to work.
PVC low-profile ducting has been developed as a cost-effective alternative to steel low-profile ducting. Low-profile ducting has been used extensively in apartment and hotel ventilation since 2005. The growth of low-profile ducting has grown significantly due to the reduction of available space in ceiling cavities in an effort to reduce cost. Since the Grenfell Tower fire in 2017 there has been a rise in the discovery of non-compliant building materials; many PVC low-profile ducting manufacturers have struggled to gain or maintain compliance, and some building projects have had to resort back to using the more expensive steel option.
The finish for external ductwork exposed to the weather can be sheet steel coated with aluminium or an aluminium/zinc alloy, a multilayer laminate, a fibre reinforced polymer or other waterproof coating.
Besides the ducts themselves, complete ducting systems contain many other components.
A duct system often begins at an air handler. The blowers in the air handler can create substantial vibration, and the large area of the duct system would transmit this noise and vibration to the inhabitants of the building. To avoid this, vibration isolators (flexible sections) are normally inserted into the duct immediately before and after the air handler. The rubberized canvas-like material of these sections allows the air handler to vibrate without transmitting much vibration to the attached ducts. The same flexible section can reduce the noise that can occur when the blower engages and positive air pressure is introduced to the ductwork.
Downstream of the air handler, the supply air trunk duct will commonly fork, providing air to many individual air outlets such as diffusers, grilles, and registers. When the system is designed with a main duct branching into many subsidiary branch ducts, fittings called take-offs allow a small portion of the flow in the main duct to be diverted into each branch duct. Take-offs may be fitted into round or rectangular openings cut into the wall of the main duct. The take-off commonly has many small metal tabs that are then bent to attach the take-off to the main duct. Round versions are called spin-in fittings. Other take-off designs use a snap-in attachment method, sometimes coupled with an adhesive foam gasket for improved sealing. The outlet of the take-off then connects to the rectangular, oval, or round branch duct.
Ducts, especially in homes, must often allow air to travel vertically within relatively thin walls. These vertical ducts are called stacks and are formed with either very wide and relatively thin rectangular sections or oval sections. At the bottom of the stack, a stack boot provides a transition from an ordinary large round or rectangular duct to the thin wall-mounted duct. At the top, a stack head can provide a transition back to ordinary ducting while a register head allows the transition to a wall-mounted air register.
Ducting systems must often provide a method of adjusting the volume of air flow to various parts of the system. Volume control dampers (VCDs; not to be confused with smoke/fire dampers) provide this function. Besides the regulation provided at the registers or diffusers that spread air into individual rooms, dampers can be fitted within the ducts themselves. These dampers may be manual or automatic. Zone dampers provide automatic control in simple systems while variable air volume (VAV) allows control in sophisticated systems.
Smoke dampers and fire dampers are found in ductwork where the duct passes through a firewall or firecurtain.
Smoke dampers are driven by a motor, referred to as an actuator. A probe connected to the motor is installed in the run of the duct and detects smoke, either in the air which has been extracted from or is being supplied to a room, or elsewhere within the run of the duct. Once smoke is detected, the actuator will automatically close the smoke damper until it is manually re-opened.
Fire dampers can be found in the same places as smoke dampers, depending on the application of the area after the firewall. Unlike smoke dampers, they are not triggered by any electrical system (which is an advantage in case of an electrical failure where the smoke dampers would fail to close). Vertically mounted fire dampers are gravity operated, while horizontal fire dampers are spring powered. A fire damper's most important feature is a mechanical fusible link which is a piece of metal that will melt or break at a specified temperature. This allows the damper to close (either from gravity or spring power), effectively sealing the duct, containing the fire, and blocking the necessary air to burn.
Turning vanes are installed inside of ductwork at changes of direction (e.g. at 90° turns) in order to minimize turbulence and resistance to the air flow. The vanes guide the air so it can follow the change of direction more easily.
Plenums are the central distribution and collection units for an HVAC system. The return plenum carries the air from several large return grilles (vents) or bell mouths to a central air handler. The supply plenum directs air from the central unit to the rooms which the system is designed to heat or cool. They must be carefully planned in ventilation design.[why?]
While single-zone constant air volume systems typically do not have these, multi-zone systems often have terminal units in the branch ducts. Usually there is one terminal unit per thermal zone. Some types of terminal units are VAV boxes (single or dual duct), fan-powered mixing boxes (in parallel or series arrangement), and induction terminal units. Terminal units may also include a heating or cooling coil.
Air terminals are the supply air outlets and return or exhaust air inlets. For supply, diffusers are most common, but grilles, and for very small HVAC systems (such as in residences) registers are also used widely. Return or exhaust grilles are used primarily for appearance reasons, but some also incorporate an air filter and are known as filter returns.[4]
The position of the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) is that "If no one in your household suffers from allergies or unexplained symptoms or illnesses and if, after a visual inspection of the inside of the ducts, you see no indication that your air ducts are contaminated with large deposits of dust or mold (no musty odor or visible mold growth), having your air ducts cleaned is probably unnecessary."[5][needs update][dubious – discuss] However, a study published in Environmental Monitoring and Assessment provides evidence that challenges this position. The study, conducted across eight identical homes, found that HVAC duct cleaning reduced particle counts at the 1.0-micron size and lowered bioaerosol concentrations two days post-cleaning compared to pre-cleaning levels, with the Air Sweep method showing the most significant reduction. This indicates that duct cleaning can effectively decrease certain airborne pollutants, even if contamination isn’t visibly obvious or immediately symptomatic. Notably, the study also observed that cleaning processes temporarily increase airborne particles and bioaerosols during the procedure due to disturbance, suggesting that benefits may not be immediate but emerge over time.[6]
A thorough duct cleaning done by a professional duct cleaner will remove dust, cobwebs, debris, pet hair, rodent hair and droppings, paper clips, calcium deposits, children's toys, and whatever else might collect inside. Ideally, the interior surface will be shiny and bright after cleaning. Insulated fiber glass duct liner and duct board can be cleaned with special non-metallic bristles. Fabric ducting can be washed or vacuumed using typical household appliances.
Cleaning of the duct system may be necessary if:
In commercial settings, regular inspection of ductwork is recommended by several standards. One standard recommends inspecting supply ducts every 1–2 years, return ducts every 1–2 years, and air handling units annually.[7] Another recommends visual inspection of internally lined ducts annually[8] Duct cleaning should be based on the results of those inspections.
Inspections are typically visual, looking for water damage or biological growth.[7][8][9] When visual inspection needs to be validated numerically, a vacuum test (VT) or deposit thickness test (DTT) can be performed. A duct with less than 0.75 mg/100m2 is considered to be clean, per the NADCA standard.[9] A Hong Kong standard lists surface deposit limits of 1g/m2 for supply and return ducts and 6g/m2 for exhaust ducts, or a maximum deposit thickness of 60 μm in supply and return ducts, and 180 μm for exhaust ducts.[10] In the UK, CIBSE standard TM26 recommends duct cleaning if measured bacterial content is more than 29 colony forming units (CFU) per 10 cm2; contamination is classified as "low" below 10 CFU/cm2, "medium" at up to 20 CFU/cm2, and "high" when measured above 20 CFU/cm2.[11]
As of 2025, there are no widely available federal or state grants or tax credits in the U.S. specifically for home duct cleaning or routine maintenance, though related activities might qualify under broader programs. The Weatherization Assistance Program aids low-income households with energy efficiency upgrades like duct sealing,[12] but not cleaning, while the Energy Efficient Home Improvement Credit offers up to $1,200 annually for sealing leaky ducts if it meets energy-saving standards—routine cleaning,[13] however, doesn’t qualify.[14] General HVAC maintenance lacks direct incentives; however, installing efficient equipment, such as heat pumps, could yield a separate $2,000 credit.[15][16]
In Canada, financial support for home duct cleaning and maintenance varies by region and eligibility. In Montreal, La Commission des normes, de l'équité, de la santé et de la sécurité du travail (CNESST) offers reimbursements up to $3,897 in 2024 for workers with permanent disabilities from work-related incidents, covering tasks like duct cleaning if they can’t perform them due to physical limitations, requiring two quotes for approval.[17] For seniors over 70, Revenu Québec’s Tax Credit for Home Support provides relief on labor costs for services including duct cleaning (without disassembly), aimed at reducing maintenance expenses, claimed via Appendix J or advance payments.[17] Meanwhile, Repentigny’s green initiative reimburses duct cleaning and reusable filter costs to promote eco-friendly living.[17]
Air pressure combined with air duct leakage can lead to a loss of energy in a HVAC system. Sealing leaks in air ducts reduces air leakage, optimizes energy efficiency, and controls the entry of pollutants into the building. Before sealing ducts it is imperative to ensure the total external static pressure of the duct work, and if equipment will fall within the equipment manufacturer's specifications. If not, higher energy usage and reduced equipment performance may result.
Commonly available duct tape should not be used on air ducts (metal, fiberglass, or otherwise) that are intended for long-term use. The adhesive on so called duct tape dries and releases with time. A more common type of duct sealant is a water-based paste that is brushed or sometimes sprayed on the seams when the duct is built. Building codes and UL standards call for special fire-resistant tapes, often with foil backings and long lasting adhesives.
Automated technology exists that can seal a duct system in its entirety from the inside out using a patented process and specialized sealant. This method for duct sealing is often used in commercial construction and multi-unit residential construction. The cost associated with automated duct sealing often makes it impractical for the average homeowner to implement in their own house.
Signs of leaky or poorly performing air ducts include:
[19]
cite book
A clothes dryer (tumble dryer, drying machine, or simply dryer) is a powered household appliance that is used to remove moisture from a load of clothing, bedding and other textiles, usually after they are washed in the washing machine.
Many dryers consist of a rotating drum called a "tumbler" through which heated air is circulated to evaporate moisture while the tumbler is rotated to maintain air space between the articles. Using such a machine may cause clothes to shrink or become less soft (due to loss of short soft fibers). A simpler non-rotating machine called a "drying cabinet" may be used for delicate fabrics and other items not suitable for a tumble dryer. Other machines include steam to de-shrink clothes and avoid ironing.[1]
Tumble dryers continuously draw in the ambient air around them and heat it before passing it through the tumbler. The resulting hot, humid air is usually vented outside to make room for more air to continue the drying process.
Tumble dryers are sometimes integrated with a washing machine, in the form of washer-dryer combos, which are essentially a front loading washing machine with an integrated dryer or (in the US) a laundry center, which stacks the dryer on top of the washer and integrates the controls for both machines into a single control panel. Often the washer and dryer functions will have a different capacity, with the dryer usually having a lower capacity than the washer. Tumble dryers can also be top loading, in which the drum is loaded from the top of the machine and the drum's end supports are in the left and right sides, instead of the more conventional front and rear. They can be as thin as 40 centimetres (16 in) in width, and may include detachable stationary racks for drying items like plush toys and footwear.[2]
These centrifuge machines simply spin their drums much faster than a typical washer could, in order to extract additional water from the load. They may remove more water in two minutes than a heated tumbler dryer can in twenty, thus saving significant amounts of time and energy. Although spinning alone will not completely dry clothing, this additional step saves a worthwhile amount of time and energy for large laundry operations such as those of hospitals.
Just as in a tumble dryer, condenser or condensation dryers pass heated air through the load. However, instead of exhausting this air, the dryer uses a heat exchanger to cool the air and condense the water vapor into either a drain pipe or a collection tank. The drier air is run through the loop again. The heat exchanger typically uses ambient air as its coolant, therefore the heat produced by the dryer will go into the immediate surroundings instead of the outside, increasing the room temperature. In some designs, cold water is used in the heat exchanger, eliminating this heating, but requiring increased water usage.
In terms of energy use, condenser dryers typically require around 2 kilowatt hours (kW⋅h) of energy per average load.[3]
Because the heat exchange process simply cools the internal air using ambient air (or cold water in some cases), it will not dry the air in the internal loop to as low a level of humidity as typical fresh, ambient air. As a consequence of the increased humidity of the air used to dry the load, this type of dryer requires somewhat more time than a tumble dryer. Condenser dryers are a particularly attractive option where long, intricate ducting would be required to vent the dryer.
A closed-cycle heat pump clothes dryer uses a heat pump to dehumidify the processing air. Such dryers typically use under half the energy per load of a condenser dryer.
Whereas condensation dryers use a passive heat exchanger cooled by ambient air, these dryers use a heat pump. The hot, humid air from the tumbler is passed through a heat pump where the cold side condenses the water vapor into either a drain pipe or a collection tank and the hot side reheats the air afterward for re-use. In this way not only does the dryer avoid the need for ducting, but it also conserves much of its heat within the dryer instead of exhausting it into the surroundings. Heat pump dryers can, therefore, use up to 50% less energy required by either condensation or conventional electric dryers. Heat pump dryers use about 1 kW⋅h of energy to dry an average load instead of 2 kW⋅h for a condenser dryer, or from 3 to 9 kW⋅h, for a conventional electric dryer.[4][5][3] Domestic heat pump dryers are designed to work in typical ambient temperatures from 5 to 30 °C (41 to 86 °F). Below 5 °C (41 °F), drying times significantly increase.
As with condensation dryers, the heat exchanger will not dry the internal air to as low a level of humidity as the typical ambient air. With respect to ambient air, the higher humidity of the air used to dry the clothes has the effect of increasing drying times; however, because heat pump dryers conserve much of the heat of the air they use, the already-hot air can be cycled more quickly, possibly leading to shorter drying times than tumble dryers, depending on the model.
A new type of dryer in development, these machines are a more advanced version of heat pump dryers. Instead of using hot air to dry the clothing, mechanical steam compression dryers use water recovered from the clothing in the form of steam. First, the tumbler and its contents are heated to 100 °C (212 °F). The wet steam that results purges the system of air and is the only remaining atmosphere in the tumbler.
As wet steam exits the tumbler, it is mechanically compressed (hence the name) to extract water vapor and transfer the heat of vaporization to the remaining gaseous steam. This pressurized, gaseous steam is then allowed to expand, and is superheated before being injected back into the tumbler where its heat causes more water to vaporize from the clothing, creating more wet steam and restarting the cycle.
Like heat pump dryers, mechanical steam compression dryers recycle much of the heat used to dry the clothes, and they operate in a very similar range of efficiency as heat pump dryers. Both types can be over twice as efficient as conventional tumble dryers. The considerably higher temperatures used in mechanical steam compression dryers result in drying times on the order of half as long as those of heat pump dryers.[6]
Marketed by some manufacturers as a "static clothes drying technique", convectant dryers simply consist of a heating unit at the bottom, a vertical chamber, and a vent at top. The unit heats air at the bottom, reducing its relative humidity, and the natural tendency of hot air to rise brings this low-humidity air into contact with the clothes. This design is slower than conventional tumble dryers, but relatively energy-efficient if well-implemented. It works particularly well in cold and humid environments, where it dries clothes substantially faster than line-drying. In hot and dry weather, the performance delta over line-drying is negligible.
Given that this is a relatively simple and cheap technique to materialize, most consumer products showcase the added benefit of portability and/or modularity. Newer designs implement a fan heater at the bottom to pump hot air into the vertical drying rack chamber. Temperatures in excess of 60 °C (140 °F) can be reached inside these "hot air balloons," yet lint, static cling, and shrinkage are minimal. Upfront cost is significantly lower than tumble, condenser and heat pump designs.
If used in combination with washing machines featuring fast spin cycles (800+ rpm) or spin dryers, the cost-effectiveness of this technique has the potential to render tumble dryer-like designs obsolete in single-person and small family households. One disadvantage is that the moisture from the clothes is released into the immediate surroundings. Proper ventilation or a complementary dehumidifier is recommended for indoor use. It also cannot compete with the tumble dryer's capacity to dry multiple loads of wet clothing in a single day.
The solar dryer is a box-shaped stationary construction which encloses a second compartment where the clothes are held. It uses the sun's heat without direct sunlight reaching the clothes. Alternatively, a solar heating box may be used to heat air that is driven through a conventional tumbler dryer.
Japanese manufacturers[7] have developed highly efficient clothes dryers that use microwave radiation to dry the clothes (though a vast majority of Japanese air dry their laundry). Most of the drying is done using microwaves to evaporate the water, but the final drying is done by convection heating, to avoid problems of arcing with metal pieces in the laundry.[8][9] There are a number of advantages: shorter drying times (25% less),[10] energy savings (17–25% less), and lower drying temperatures. Some analysts think that the arcing and fabric damage is a factor preventing microwave dryers from being developed for the US market.[11][12]
Ultrasonic dryers use high-frequency signals to drive piezoelectric actuators in order to mechanically shake the clothes, releasing water in the form of a mist which is then removed from the drum. They have the potential to significantly cut energy consumption while needing only one-third of the time needed by a conventional electric dryer for a given load.[13] They also do not have the same issues related with lint in most other types of dryers.[14]
Some manufacturers, like LG Electronics and Whirlpool, have introduced hybrid dryers, that offer the user the option of using either a heat pump or a traditional electric heating element for drying the user's clothes. Hybrid dryers can also use a heat pump and a heating element at the same time to dry clothes faster.
Clothes dryers can cause static cling through the triboelectric effect. This can be a minor nuisance and is often a symptom of over-drying textiles to below their equilibrium moisture level, particularly when using synthetic materials. Fabric conditioning products such as dryer sheets are marketed to dissipate this static charge, depositing surfactants onto the fabric load by mechanical abrasion during tumbling.[15] Modern dryers often have improved temperature and humidity sensors and electronic controls which aim to stop the drying cycle once textiles are sufficiently dry, avoiding over-drying and the static charge and energy wastage this causes.
Drying at a minimum of 60 °C (140 °F) heat for thirty minutes kills many parasites including house dust mites,[16] bed bugs,[17] and scabies mites[18] and their eggs; a bit more than ten minutes kills ticks.[19] Simply washing drowns dust mites, and exposure to direct sunlight for three hours kills their eggs.[16]
Moisture and lint are byproducts of the tumble drying process and are pulled from the drum by a fan motor and then pushed through the remaining exhaust conduit to the exterior termination fitting. Typical exhaust conduit comprises flex transition hose found immediately behind the dryer, the 4-inch (100 mm) rigid galvanized pipe and elbow fittings found within the wall framing, and the vent duct hood found outside the house.
A clean, unobstructed dryer vent improves both the efficiency and safety of the dryer. As the dryer duct pipe becomes partially obstructed and filled with lint, drying time markedly increases and causes the dryer to waste energy. A blocked vent increases the internal temperature and may result in a fire. Clothes dryers are one of the more costly home appliances to operate.[20]
Several factors can contribute to or accelerate rapid lint build-up. These include long or restrictive ducts, bird or rodent nests in the termination, crushed or kinked flex transition hose, terminations with screen-like features, and condensation within the duct due to un-insulated ducts traveling through cold spaces such as a crawl space or attic. If plastic flaps are at the outside end of the duct, one may be able to flex, bend, and temporarily remove the plastic flaps, clean the inside surface of the flaps, clean the last foot or so of the duct, and reattach the plastic flaps. The plastic flaps keep insects, birds, and snakes[21] out of the dryer vent pipe. During cold weather, the warm wet air condenses on the plastic flaps, and minor trace amounts of lint sticks to the wet inside part of the plastic flaps at the outside of the building.[22][23]
Ventless dryers include multi-stage lint filtration systems and some even include automatic evaporator and condenser cleaning functions that can run even while the dryer is running. The evaporator and condenser are usually cleaned with running water. These systems are necessary, in order to prevent lint from building up inside the dryer and evaporator and condenser coils.
Aftermarket add-on lint and moisture traps can be attached to the dryer duct pipe, on machines originally manufactured as outside-venting, to facilitate installation where an outside vent is not available. Increased humidity at the location of installation is a drawback to this method.[24]
Dryers expose flammable materials to heat. Underwriters Laboratories[25] recommends cleaning the lint filter after every cycle for safety and energy efficiency, provision of adequate ventilation, and cleaning of the duct at regular intervals.[26] UL also recommends that dryers not be used for glass fiber, rubber, foam or plastic items, or any item that has had a flammable substance spilled on it.
In the United States, an estimate from the US Fire Administration[27] in a 2012 report estimated that from 2008 to 2010, fire departments responded to an estimated 2,900 clothes dryer fires in residential buildings each year across the nation. These fires resulted in an annual average loss of 5 deaths, 100 injuries, and $35 million in property loss. The Fire Administration attributes "Failure to clean" (34%) as the leading factor contributing to clothes dryer fires in residential buildings, and observed that new home construction trends place clothes dryers and washing machines in more hazardous locations away from outside walls, such as in bedrooms, second-floor hallways, bathrooms, and kitchens.
To address the problem of clothes dryer fires, a fire suppression system can be used with sensors to detect the change in temperature when a blaze starts in a dryer drum. These sensors then activate a water vapor mechanism to put out the fire.[28]
The environmental impact of clothes dryers is especially severe in the US and Canada, where over 80% of all homes have a clothes dryer. According to the US Environmental Protection Agency, if all residential clothes dryers sold in the US were energy efficient, "the utility cost savings would grow to more than $1.5 billion each year and more than 10 billion kilograms (22 billion pounds) of annual greenhouse gas emissions would be prevented”.[29]
Clothes dryers are second only to refrigerators and freezers as the largest residential electrical energy consumers in America.[30]
In the European Union, the EU energy labeling system is applied to dryers; dryers are classified with a label from A+++ (best) to G (worst) according to the amount of energy used per kilogram of clothes (kW⋅h/kg). Sensor dryers can automatically sense that clothes are dry and switch off. This means over-drying is not as frequent. Most of the European market sells sensor dryers now, and they are normally available in condenser and vented dryers.
A hand-cranked clothes dryer was created in 1800 by M. Pochon from France.[31] Henry W. Altorfer invented and patented an electric clothes dryer in 1937.[32] J. Ross Moore, an inventor from North Dakota, developed designs for automatic clothes dryers and published his design for an electrically operated dryer in 1938.[33] Industrial designer Brooks Stevens developed an electric dryer with a glass window in the early 1940s.[34]
cite web
Very prompt and professional. They were also able to install UV lighting in the AC handler as well as cleaning the whole handler. Much more than just a vent cleaner!
We needed A/C vent cleaning and service. Service Tech., Daniel arrived on time and did a great job, no hassles. The company was fair on price and got the job done, thank you.
Daniel came out on time to clean my dryer vents. He found cracks in the vent in the attic which he cleaned the vent thoroughly and repaired the cracks. He showed me pics of before and after. He did a wonderful job and I highly recommend him.
They came for a Basic cleaning that ended up being a little more Involved because there was a blockage. The technician was thorough in his explanation of the job and what was needed Including the repair of the duct work. He was very professional and we are happy with the finished product.
I was very impressed and felt very confident of the service I received from Daniel and the company of which is very honored to have him as a star employee in my consideration. He not only presented himself as knowledgeable, but very informative and had his company dependable duct service in mind at all times. This service I will recommend to many in the park where I live with confidence...Thank you..Joan Ringle
https://www.google.com/maps/dir/?api=1&origin=27.896051584306,-82.48253619101&destination=Dependable+Air+Duct+%26+Dryer+Vent+Cleaning%2C+6107+S+MacDill+Ave%2C+Tampa%2C+FL+33611%2C+USA&destination_place_id=ChIJf1pZRC3dwogRu2uePH0XXp8&travelmode=driving&query=HVAC+and+dryer+vent+cleaning+combo+Tampa
https://www.google.com/maps/dir/?api=1&origin=27.918674315327,-82.521769075009&destination=Dependable+Air+Duct+%26+Dryer+Vent+Cleaning%2C+6107+S+MacDill+Ave%2C+Tampa%2C+FL+33611%2C+USA&destination_place_id=ChIJf1pZRC3dwogRu2uePH0XXp8&travelmode=driving&query=Dryer+vent+inspection+and+cleaning+Tampa
https://www.google.com/maps/dir/?api=1&origin=27.884813469597,-82.49529280758&destination=Dependable+Air+Duct+%26+Dryer+Vent+Cleaning%2C+6107+S+MacDill+Ave%2C+Tampa%2C+FL+33611%2C+USA&destination_place_id=ChIJf1pZRC3dwogRu2uePH0XXp8&travelmode=driving&query=Tampa+Dryer+Vent+Cleaning
https://www.google.com/maps/dir/?api=1&origin=27.884613965995,-82.497959674566&destination=Dependable+Air+Duct+%26+Dryer+Vent+Cleaning%2C+6107+S+MacDill+Ave%2C+Tampa%2C+FL+33611%2C+USA&destination_place_id=ChIJf1pZRC3dwogRu2uePH0XXp8&travelmode=driving&query=Lint+trap+cleaning+service+Tampa
https://www.google.com/maps/dir/?api=1&origin=27.852831923529,-82.569095562207&destination=Dependable+Air+Duct+%26+Dryer+Vent+Cleaning%2C+6107+S+MacDill+Ave%2C+Tampa%2C+FL+33611%2C+USA&destination_place_id=ChIJf1pZRC3dwogRu2uePH0XXp8&travelmode=driving&query=Air+duct+and+dryer+vent+cleaning+Tampa
https://www.google.com/maps/dir/?api=1&origin=27.865011124996,-82.484608631638&destination=Dependable+Air+Duct+%26+Dryer+Vent+Cleaning%2C+6107+S+MacDill+Ave%2C+Tampa%2C+FL+33611%2C+USA&destination_place_id=ChIJf1pZRC3dwogRu2uePH0XXp8&travelmode=driving&query=Lint+trap+cleaning+service+Tampa
https://www.google.com/maps/dir/?api=1&origin=27.851773738571,-82.432362173299&destination=Dependable+Air+Duct+%26+Dryer+Vent+Cleaning%2C+6107+S+MacDill+Ave%2C+Tampa%2C+FL+33611%2C+USA&destination_place_id=ChIJf1pZRC3dwogRu2uePH0XXp8&travelmode=driving&query=Same+Day+Dryer+Vent+Cleaning+Tampa
https://www.google.com/maps/dir/?api=1&origin=27.866186956721,-82.437476147812&destination=Dependable+Air+Duct+%26+Dryer+Vent+Cleaning%2C+6107+S+MacDill+Ave%2C+Tampa%2C+FL+33611%2C+USA&destination_place_id=ChIJf1pZRC3dwogRu2uePH0XXp8&travelmode=driving&query=Tampa+Dryer+Vent+Cleaning
https://www.google.com/maps/dir/?api=1&origin=27.876298667974,-82.48835947426&destination=Dependable+Air+Duct+%26+Dryer+Vent+Cleaning%2C+6107+S+MacDill+Ave%2C+Tampa%2C+FL+33611%2C+USA&destination_place_id=ChIJf1pZRC3dwogRu2uePH0XXp8&travelmode=driving&query=Eco-friendly+dryer+vent+cleaning+Tampa
https://www.google.com/maps/dir/?api=1&origin=27.893588634764,-82.497222850627&destination=Dependable+Air+Duct+%26+Dryer+Vent+Cleaning%2C+6107+S+MacDill+Ave%2C+Tampa%2C+FL+33611%2C+USA&destination_place_id=ChIJf1pZRC3dwogRu2uePH0XXp8&travelmode=driving&query=Professional+Dryer+Vent+Cleaning+Tampa