That dreaded burning smell. You know the one. It's not quite smoke, but it's definitely not potpourri. Chances are, your dryer vent needs some attention. And now you're faced with the age-old homeowner's dilemma: repair or replace? Figuring that out often boils down to a cost comparison: evaluating replacement costs versus repair costs.
Repairing a dryer vent can involve anything from a simple cleaning (which, lets be honest, you should be doing regularly anyway) to patching up small holes or replacing damaged sections of flexible ducting. These repairs are usually relatively inexpensive and can be a good short-term solution, especially if the overall structure of the vent is sound. Think of it like patching a small hole in your jeans – a quick fix that gets you more wear out of them.
However, sometimes a patch just wont cut it. If your dryer vent is severely damaged, clogged with lint beyond redemption, or made of outdated and potentially hazardous materials like foil, then replacement is the safer and, in the long run, often more economical choice. Imagine trying to patch up those jeans after theyve been through a wood chipper – at some point, you're better off buying a new pair.
Replacing a dryer vent involves removing the old vent entirely and installing a new one, usually made of rigid metal ducting. This can be more expensive upfront than a repair, but it offers several advantages. A new vent will be more efficient, reducing drying times and saving you money on your energy bill. It will also be safer, minimizing the risk of fire hazards caused by lint buildup. Plus, you get peace of mind knowing you have a brand-new, properly functioning system.
So, how do you decide? Start by assessing the damage. If it's minor, a repair might suffice. But if the problems are extensive or if your vent is ancient, replacement is likely the better option. Get quotes from qualified professionals for both repair and replacement. Don't just focus on the initial cost; consider the long-term benefits and potential savings. A little bit of upfront investment in a new dryer vent can save you headaches (and potentially a house fire) down the line.
Tackling a dryer vent repair or replacement isnt as daunting as it might seem. With a few common tools and the right materials, you can improve your dryers efficiency and prevent fire hazards. Lets run through what youll need to gather before you start.
First up, the tools. Youll definitely need a screwdriver, likely both Phillips and flathead. A drill will come in handy for securing the vent to the wall and potentially removing existing screws. A utility knife or sturdy scissors are essential for cutting the vent material to length. Dont forget a measuring tape to ensure you get the right fit. If youre dealing with a particularly long or complex vent run, a fish tape or flexible dryer vent brush can be a lifesaver for navigating tight spaces and clearing out debris. Finally, depending on your setup, you might need a wrench or pliers to disconnect and reconnect existing vent connections.
Now for the materials. The star of the show is the vent itself. Opt for rigid metal (aluminum or galvanized steel) ducting; its the safest and most efficient choice. Avoid flexible foil or plastic venting as these are fire hazards. Youll also need connectors, specifically elbows to make turns and straight connectors to join sections of duct. Make sure these are also metal. Dont forget screws to secure the vent to the wall and foil tape to seal all the joints – this prevents lint from escaping and creating a fire hazard. If youre replacing the entire vent, youll need a new vent hood for the exterior wall termination.
Having these tools and materials on hand before you begin will make the job go smoothly. Remember to always disconnect the dryer from the power supply before starting any work. With a little preparation and the right equipment, you can have your dryer venting safely and efficiently in no time.
A clogged dryer vent isnt just annoying – its a fire hazard. Lint buildup restricts airflow, causing your dryer to work harder, overheat, and potentially ignite. Thankfully, cleaning or replacing your vent is a manageable DIY project. Heres a step-by-step guide to get you started:
Safety First: Unplug your dryer completely before starting any work. This eliminates the risk of electric shock.
Disconnect the Vent: Locate the vent hose at the back of your dryer. Its usually secured with a clamp or tape. Carefully detach the hose and vacuum out any loose lint inside the dryer opening and the hose itself. A brush specifically designed for dryer vents can help dislodge stubborn debris.
Check the Exterior Vent: Go outside and locate the exterior vent opening. Remove the vent cover and inspect it for blockages like lint, birds nests, or other debris. Clear out anything you find.
Clean the Vent Duct: This is where the real work begins. If you have a short, straight duct, a vent brush kit can often reach the entire length. Feed the brush into the duct from either the inside or outside, rotating it as you go to loosen and pull out lint. For longer or more complex ducts, consider using a leaf blower or a specialized dryer vent cleaning kit with an extendable brush or vacuum attachment.
Inspect and Repair (or Replace): As you clean, inspect the duct for damage. Look for kinks, holes, or detached sections. Minor damage can sometimes be repaired with foil tape designed for high temperatures. However, if the duct is significantly damaged or made of plastic or foil (which are fire hazards), its best to replace it with a rigid metal or semi-rigid aluminum duct.
Reconnect Everything: Once the duct is clean and repaired/replaced, reattach the vent hose to the dryer and the exterior vent opening. Make sure all connections are secure and airtight to prevent lint from escaping. Replace the exterior vent cover.
Test It Out: Plug your dryer back in and run a load of towels on high heat. Go outside and check the exterior vent to ensure good airflow and that no lint is escaping from the connections. If you feel strong airflow, youve successfully repaired your dryer vent.
Regularly cleaning your dryer vent is crucial for fire safety and dryer efficiency. Aim to clean it thoroughly at least once a year, or more frequently if you have a large family or notice your dryer taking longer to dry clothes.
Replacing a dryer vent isnt as daunting as it might seem. Its a project most homeowners can tackle themselves with a little patience and the right tools. Here’s a step-by-step guide to get you through it:
Safety First: Disconnect the dryers power cord from the electrical outlet. This is crucial to prevent any electrical shocks. Also, turn off the gas supply if you have a gas dryer.
Detach the Dryer: Carefully pull the dryer away from the wall. Youll need enough space to access the vent connection at the back of the dryer. Be mindful of the dryers weight and avoid straining yourself.
Disconnect the Vent: Locate the vent hose connected to the dryer and the wall. Its usually secured with a clamp or foil tape. Loosen the clamp or carefully remove the tape to detach the vent. You might find some lint buildup around the connection, so be prepared for a bit of a mess.
Inspect the Existing Vent: Nows a good time to assess the old vent. Check for damage, kinks, or clogs. This will give you a better idea of why youre replacing it and what type of new vent might be best.
Measure and Plan: Measure the length of the vent run from the dryer to the exterior vent opening. This will determine how much new venting material you need. Consider upgrading to a rigid metal or semi-rigid aluminum vent for improved airflow and fire safety. Flexible foil vents are generally discouraged due to their tendency to trap lint.
Install the New Vent: Start by connecting the new vent to the dryer exhaust outlet, securing it with a clamp. Then, carefully route the vent to the exterior vent opening, ensuring a smooth and straight path as possible. Use elbows only when necessary and try to minimize the number of bends. Secure the vent along its length with appropriate straps or clamps to prevent sagging and kinks.
Connect to the Exterior Vent Hood: Attach the new vent to the exterior vent hood, ensuring a tight and secure connection. Replace the exterior vent hood if its damaged or rusted.
Reconnect the Dryer: Push the dryer back into place and reconnect the vent to the dryer exhaust outlet. Double-check all connections to ensure they are secure.
Test the Vent: Plug the dryer back in and run a short drying cycle. Go outside and check the exterior vent hood to make sure air is flowing freely. Place your hand near the vent to feel the airflow. If you notice any restrictions, double-check the vent connections and look for any kinks or blockages.
Clean Up: Vacuum up any loose lint and debris. Regularly cleaning your dryer vent is important for fire safety and efficient drying.
Replacing your dryer vent might seem like a chore, but its a relatively straightforward project that can improve your dryers performance and reduce the risk of fire. By following these steps and taking your time, you can ensure a safe and efficient laundry experience for years to come.
A clothes dryer (tumble dryer, drying machine, or simply dryer) is a powered household appliance that is used to remove moisture from a load of clothing, bedding and other textiles, usually after they are washed in the washing machine.
Many dryers consist of a rotating drum called a "tumbler" through which heated air is circulated to evaporate moisture while the tumbler is rotated to maintain air space between the articles. Using such a machine may cause clothes to shrink or become less soft (due to loss of short soft fibers). A simpler non-rotating machine called a "drying cabinet" may be used for delicate fabrics and other items not suitable for a tumble dryer. Other machines include steam to de-shrink clothes and avoid ironing.[1]
Tumble dryers continuously draw in the ambient air around them and heat it before passing it through the tumbler. The resulting hot, humid air is usually vented outside to make room for more air to continue the drying process.
Tumble dryers are sometimes integrated with a washing machine, in the form of washer-dryer combos, which are essentially a front loading washing machine with an integrated dryer or (in the US) a laundry center, which stacks the dryer on top of the washer and integrates the controls for both machines into a single control panel. Often the washer and dryer functions will have a different capacity, with the dryer usually having a lower capacity than the washer. Tumble dryers can also be top loading, in which the drum is loaded from the top of the machine and the drum's end supports are in the left and right sides, instead of the more conventional front and rear. They can be as thin as 40 centimetres (16 in) in width, and may include detachable stationary racks for drying items like plush toys and footwear.[2]
These centrifuge machines simply spin their drums much faster than a typical washer could, in order to extract additional water from the load. They may remove more water in two minutes than a heated tumbler dryer can in twenty, thus saving significant amounts of time and energy. Although spinning alone will not completely dry clothing, this additional step saves a worthwhile amount of time and energy for large laundry operations such as those of hospitals.
Just as in a tumble dryer, condenser or condensation dryers pass heated air through the load. However, instead of exhausting this air, the dryer uses a heat exchanger to cool the air and condense the water vapor into either a drain pipe or a collection tank. The drier air is run through the loop again. The heat exchanger typically uses ambient air as its coolant, therefore the heat produced by the dryer will go into the immediate surroundings instead of the outside, increasing the room temperature. In some designs, cold water is used in the heat exchanger, eliminating this heating, but requiring increased water usage.
In terms of energy use, condenser dryers typically require around 2 kilowatt hours (kW⋅h) of energy per average load.[3]
Because the heat exchange process simply cools the internal air using ambient air (or cold water in some cases), it will not dry the air in the internal loop to as low a level of humidity as typical fresh, ambient air. As a consequence of the increased humidity of the air used to dry the load, this type of dryer requires somewhat more time than a tumble dryer. Condenser dryers are a particularly attractive option where long, intricate ducting would be required to vent the dryer.
A closed-cycle heat pump clothes dryer uses a heat pump to dehumidify the processing air. Such dryers typically use under half the energy per load of a condenser dryer.
Whereas condensation dryers use a passive heat exchanger cooled by ambient air, these dryers use a heat pump. The hot, humid air from the tumbler is passed through a heat pump where the cold side condenses the water vapor into either a drain pipe or a collection tank and the hot side reheats the air afterward for re-use. In this way not only does the dryer avoid the need for ducting, but it also conserves much of its heat within the dryer instead of exhausting it into the surroundings. Heat pump dryers can, therefore, use up to 50% less energy required by either condensation or conventional electric dryers. Heat pump dryers use about 1 kW⋅h of energy to dry an average load instead of 2 kW⋅h for a condenser dryer, or from 3 to 9 kW⋅h, for a conventional electric dryer.[4][5][3] Domestic heat pump dryers are designed to work in typical ambient temperatures from 5 to 30 °C (41 to 86 °F). Below 5 °C (41 °F), drying times significantly increase.
As with condensation dryers, the heat exchanger will not dry the internal air to as low a level of humidity as the typical ambient air. With respect to ambient air, the higher humidity of the air used to dry the clothes has the effect of increasing drying times; however, because heat pump dryers conserve much of the heat of the air they use, the already-hot air can be cycled more quickly, possibly leading to shorter drying times than tumble dryers, depending on the model.
A new type of dryer in development, these machines are a more advanced version of heat pump dryers. Instead of using hot air to dry the clothing, mechanical steam compression dryers use water recovered from the clothing in the form of steam. First, the tumbler and its contents are heated to 100 °C (212 °F). The wet steam that results purges the system of air and is the only remaining atmosphere in the tumbler.
As wet steam exits the tumbler, it is mechanically compressed (hence the name) to extract water vapor and transfer the heat of vaporization to the remaining gaseous steam. This pressurized, gaseous steam is then allowed to expand, and is superheated before being injected back into the tumbler where its heat causes more water to vaporize from the clothing, creating more wet steam and restarting the cycle.
Like heat pump dryers, mechanical steam compression dryers recycle much of the heat used to dry the clothes, and they operate in a very similar range of efficiency as heat pump dryers. Both types can be over twice as efficient as conventional tumble dryers. The considerably higher temperatures used in mechanical steam compression dryers result in drying times on the order of half as long as those of heat pump dryers.[6]
Marketed by some manufacturers as a "static clothes drying technique", convectant dryers simply consist of a heating unit at the bottom, a vertical chamber, and a vent at top. The unit heats air at the bottom, reducing its relative humidity, and the natural tendency of hot air to rise brings this low-humidity air into contact with the clothes. This design is slower than conventional tumble dryers, but relatively energy-efficient if well-implemented. It works particularly well in cold and humid environments, where it dries clothes substantially faster than line-drying. In hot and dry weather, the performance delta over line-drying is negligible.
Given that this is a relatively simple and cheap technique to materialize, most consumer products showcase the added benefit of portability and/or modularity. Newer designs implement a fan heater at the bottom to pump hot air into the vertical drying rack chamber. Temperatures in excess of 60 °C (140 °F) can be reached inside these "hot air balloons," yet lint, static cling, and shrinkage are minimal. Upfront cost is significantly lower than tumble, condenser and heat pump designs.
If used in combination with washing machines featuring fast spin cycles (800+ rpm) or spin dryers, the cost-effectiveness of this technique has the potential to render tumble dryer-like designs obsolete in single-person and small family households. One disadvantage is that the moisture from the clothes is released into the immediate surroundings. Proper ventilation or a complementary dehumidifier is recommended for indoor use. It also cannot compete with the tumble dryer's capacity to dry multiple loads of wet clothing in a single day.
The solar dryer is a box-shaped stationary construction which encloses a second compartment where the clothes are held. It uses the sun's heat without direct sunlight reaching the clothes. Alternatively, a solar heating box may be used to heat air that is driven through a conventional tumbler dryer.
Japanese manufacturers[7] have developed highly efficient clothes dryers that use microwave radiation to dry the clothes (though a vast majority of Japanese air dry their laundry). Most of the drying is done using microwaves to evaporate the water, but the final drying is done by convection heating, to avoid problems of arcing with metal pieces in the laundry.[8][9] There are a number of advantages: shorter drying times (25% less),[10] energy savings (17–25% less), and lower drying temperatures. Some analysts think that the arcing and fabric damage is a factor preventing microwave dryers from being developed for the US market.[11][12]
Ultrasonic dryers use high-frequency signals to drive piezoelectric actuators in order to mechanically shake the clothes, releasing water in the form of a mist which is then removed from the drum. They have the potential to significantly cut energy consumption while needing only one-third of the time needed by a conventional electric dryer for a given load.[13] They also do not have the same issues related with lint in most other types of dryers.[14]
Some manufacturers, like LG Electronics and Whirlpool, have introduced hybrid dryers, that offer the user the option of using either a heat pump or a traditional electric heating element for drying the user's clothes. Hybrid dryers can also use a heat pump and a heating element at the same time to dry clothes faster.
Clothes dryers can cause static cling through the triboelectric effect. This can be a minor nuisance and is often a symptom of over-drying textiles to below their equilibrium moisture level, particularly when using synthetic materials. Fabric conditioning products such as dryer sheets are marketed to dissipate this static charge, depositing surfactants onto the fabric load by mechanical abrasion during tumbling.[15] Modern dryers often have improved temperature and humidity sensors and electronic controls which aim to stop the drying cycle once textiles are sufficiently dry, avoiding over-drying and the static charge and energy wastage this causes.
Drying at a minimum of 60 °C (140 °F) heat for thirty minutes kills many parasites including house dust mites,[16] bed bugs,[17] and scabies mites[18] and their eggs; a bit more than ten minutes kills ticks.[19] Simply washing drowns dust mites, and exposure to direct sunlight for three hours kills their eggs.[16]
Moisture and lint are byproducts of the tumble drying process and are pulled from the drum by a fan motor and then pushed through the remaining exhaust conduit to the exterior termination fitting. Typical exhaust conduit comprises flex transition hose found immediately behind the dryer, the 4-inch (100 mm) rigid galvanized pipe and elbow fittings found within the wall framing, and the vent duct hood found outside the house.
A clean, unobstructed dryer vent improves both the efficiency and safety of the dryer. As the dryer duct pipe becomes partially obstructed and filled with lint, drying time markedly increases and causes the dryer to waste energy. A blocked vent increases the internal temperature and may result in a fire. Clothes dryers are one of the more costly home appliances to operate.[20]
Several factors can contribute to or accelerate rapid lint build-up. These include long or restrictive ducts, bird or rodent nests in the termination, crushed or kinked flex transition hose, terminations with screen-like features, and condensation within the duct due to un-insulated ducts traveling through cold spaces such as a crawl space or attic. If plastic flaps are at the outside end of the duct, one may be able to flex, bend, and temporarily remove the plastic flaps, clean the inside surface of the flaps, clean the last foot or so of the duct, and reattach the plastic flaps. The plastic flaps keep insects, birds, and snakes[21] out of the dryer vent pipe. During cold weather, the warm wet air condenses on the plastic flaps, and minor trace amounts of lint sticks to the wet inside part of the plastic flaps at the outside of the building.[22][23]
Ventless dryers include multi-stage lint filtration systems and some even include automatic evaporator and condenser cleaning functions that can run even while the dryer is running. The evaporator and condenser are usually cleaned with running water. These systems are necessary, in order to prevent lint from building up inside the dryer and evaporator and condenser coils.
Aftermarket add-on lint and moisture traps can be attached to the dryer duct pipe, on machines originally manufactured as outside-venting, to facilitate installation where an outside vent is not available. Increased humidity at the location of installation is a drawback to this method.[24]
Dryers expose flammable materials to heat. Underwriters Laboratories[25] recommends cleaning the lint filter after every cycle for safety and energy efficiency, provision of adequate ventilation, and cleaning of the duct at regular intervals.[26] UL also recommends that dryers not be used for glass fiber, rubber, foam or plastic items, or any item that has had a flammable substance spilled on it.
In the United States, an estimate from the US Fire Administration[27] in a 2012 report estimated that from 2008 to 2010, fire departments responded to an estimated 2,900 clothes dryer fires in residential buildings each year across the nation. These fires resulted in an annual average loss of 5 deaths, 100 injuries, and $35 million in property loss. The Fire Administration attributes "Failure to clean" (34%) as the leading factor contributing to clothes dryer fires in residential buildings, and observed that new home construction trends place clothes dryers and washing machines in more hazardous locations away from outside walls, such as in bedrooms, second-floor hallways, bathrooms, and kitchens.
To address the problem of clothes dryer fires, a fire suppression system can be used with sensors to detect the change in temperature when a blaze starts in a dryer drum. These sensors then activate a water vapor mechanism to put out the fire.[28]
The environmental impact of clothes dryers is especially severe in the US and Canada, where over 80% of all homes have a clothes dryer. According to the US Environmental Protection Agency, if all residential clothes dryers sold in the US were energy efficient, "the utility cost savings would grow to more than $1.5 billion each year and more than 10 billion kilograms (22 billion pounds) of annual greenhouse gas emissions would be prevented”.[29]
Clothes dryers are second only to refrigerators and freezers as the largest residential electrical energy consumers in America.[30]
In the European Union, the EU energy labeling system is applied to dryers; dryers are classified with a label from A+++ (best) to G (worst) according to the amount of energy used per kilogram of clothes (kW⋅h/kg). Sensor dryers can automatically sense that clothes are dry and switch off. This means over-drying is not as frequent. Most of the European market sells sensor dryers now, and they are normally available in condenser and vented dryers.
A hand-cranked clothes dryer was created in 1800 by M. Pochon from France.[31] Henry W. Altorfer invented and patented an electric clothes dryer in 1937.[32] J. Ross Moore, an inventor from North Dakota, developed designs for automatic clothes dryers and published his design for an electrically operated dryer in 1938.[33] Industrial designer Brooks Stevens developed an electric dryer with a glass window in the early 1940s.[34]
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Dry cleaning is any cleaning process for clothing and textiles using a solvent other than water. Clothes are instead soaked in a water-free liquid solvent (usually non-polar, as opposed to water which is a polar solvent). Perchloroethylene (known in the industry as "perc") is the most commonly used solvent, although alternative solvents such as hydrocarbons, and supercritical CO2 are also used.
Most natural fibers can be washed in water but some synthetics (e.g., viscose) react poorly with water and should be dry cleaned if possible.[1] If not, this could result in changes in texture, strength, and shape. Additionally, certain specialty fabrics, including silk and rayon, may also benefit from dry cleaning to prevent damage.
The ancient Greeks and Romans had some waterless methods to clean textiles, involving the use of powdered chemicals and absorbent clay (fuller's earth).[citation needed] By the 1700s, the French were using turpentine-based solvents for specialized cleaning.[citation needed]
Modern solvent-based dry cleaning may have originated in 1821 with American entrepreneur Thomas L. Jennings. Jennings referred to his method as "dry scouring".[2]
French dye-works operator Jean Baptiste Jolly[3][a] developed his own method using kerosene and gasoline to clean fabrics.[3] He opened the first dry cleaning service in Paris in 1845.[5]
Flammability concerns led William Joseph Stoddard, a dry cleaner from Atlanta, to develop in 1924 Stoddard solvent (white spirit) as a slightly less flammable alternative to gasoline-based solvents.
The use of highly flammable petroleum solvents caused many fires and explosions, resulting in government regulation of dry cleaners.
After World War I, dry cleaners began using chlorinated solvents. These solvents were much less flammable than petroleum solvents and had improved cleaning power.[citation needed] Early solvents were carbon tetrachloride and trichloroethylene (TCE), but they gradually were phased out as their adverse health effects became more known. TCE may still occasionally be used for spot cleaning of difficult stains.
By the mid-1930s, the dry cleaning industry had started to use tetrachloroethylene (also called perchloroethylene or PCE) as the solvent. It has excellent cleaning power and is nonflammable and compatible with most garments. Because it is stable, tetrachloroethylene is readily recycled, but it is persistent if released into the environment.[6]
From the customer's perspective, dry cleaning businesses are either "plants" or "drop shops". The former does on-site cleaning, while a drop shop receives garments from customers, sends them to a large plant, and then has the cleaned garments returned to the shop for pickup by the customer. The latter setup minimized the risk of fire or dangerous fumes created by the cleaning process. At the time, dry cleaning had been accomplished by using two machines—one for the cleaning process and the second to remove the solvent from the garments.
Machines of this era were described as "vented"; their drying exhausts were expelled into the atmosphere, the same as many modern tumble-dryer exhausts. This contributed to environmental contamination, and much potentially reusable solvent was lost to the atmosphere. Today, much stricter controls on solvent emissions have ensured that all dry cleaning machines in the Western world are fully enclosed, and no solvent fumes are vented to the atmosphere.[citation needed] In enclosed machines, solvent extracted during the drying process is recovered and purified by distillation, so it can be reused to clean further loads or safely disposed of. Most modern enclosed machines also incorporate a computer-controlled drying sensor, which automatically senses when all detectable traces of PCE have been removed. This system ensures that only small amounts of PCE fumes are released at the end of the cycle.
In terms of mechanism, dry cleaning selectively solubilizes stains on the article. The solvents are non-polar and tend to selectively extract many compounds that cause stains. These stains would otherwise only dissolve in aqueous detergent mixtures at high temperatures, potentially damaging delicate fabrics.
Non-polar solvents are also good for some fabrics, especially natural fabrics, as the solvent does not interact with any polar groups within the fabric. Water binds to these polar groups which results in the swelling and stretching of proteins within fibers during laundering. Also, the binding of water molecules interferes with weak attractions within the fiber, resulting in the loss of the fiber's original shape. After the laundry cycle, water molecules will evaporate. However, the original shape of the fibers has already been distorted and this commonly results in shrinkage. Non-polar solvents prevent this interaction, protecting more delicate fabrics.
The usage of an effective solvent coupled with mechanical friction from tumbling effectively removes stains.
A dry cleaning machine is similar to a combination of a domestic washing machine and clothes dryer. Garments are placed in the washing or extraction chamber (referred to as the "basket" or "drum"), which constitutes the core of the machine. The washing chamber contains a horizontal-axis, perforated drum that rotates within an outer shell. The shell holds the solvent while the rotating drum holds the garment load. The basket capacity is between about 10 and 40 kilograms (22 and 88 lb).[citation needed]
During the wash cycle, the chamber is filled approximately one-third full of solvent and begins to rotate, agitating the clothing. The solvent temperature is maintained at 30 °C (86 °F) or lower, as a higher temperature may damage it. During the wash cycle, the solvent in the chamber (commonly known as the "cage" or "tackle box") is passed through a filtration chamber and then fed back into the "cage". This is known as the cycle, and is continued for the wash duration. The solvent is then removed and sent to a distillation unit consisting of a boiler and condenser. The condensed solvent is fed into a separator unit where any remaining water is separated from the solvent, and the refined solvent fed into the clean solvent tank. The ideal flow rate is roughly 8 liters of solvent per kilogram of garments per minute (very approximately one gallon per pound of garments), depending on the size of the machine.
A typical wash cycle lasts for 8–15 minutes depending on the type of garments and degree of soiling. During the first three minutes, solvent-soluble soils dissolve into the perchloroethylene and loose, insoluble soil comes off. It takes 10–12 minutes after the loose soil has come off to remove any ground-in insoluble soil from garments. Machines using hydrocarbon solvents require a wash cycle of at least 25 minutes because of the much slower rate of solvation of solvent-soluble soils. A dry cleaning surfactant "soap" may also be added.
At the end of the wash cycle, the machine starts a rinse cycle where the garment load is rinsed with freshly distilled solvent dispensed from the solvent tank. This pure solvent rinse prevents discoloration caused by soil particles being deposited back into the garment from the "dirty" working solvent.
After the rinse cycle, the machine begins the extraction process, which recovers the solvent for reuse. Modern machines recover approximately 99.99% of the solvent employed. The extraction cycle begins by draining the solvent from the washing chamber and accelerating the basket to 350–450 rpm, causing much of the solvent to spin free of the fabric. Until this time, the cleaning is done in normal temperature, as the solvent is never heated during dry cleaning process. When no more solvent can be spun out, the machine starts the drying cycle.
During the drying cycle, the garments are tumbled in a stream of warm air (60–63 °C; 140–145 °F) that circulates throughout the basket, evaporating traces of solvent left after the spin cycle. The air temperature is controlled to prevent heat damage to the garments. The exhausted warm air from the machine then passes through a chiller unit where solvent vapors are condensed and returned to the distilled solvent tank. Modern dry cleaning machines use a closed-loop system in which the chilled air is reheated and recirculated. This results in high solvent recovery rates and reduced air pollution. In the early days of dry cleaning, large amounts of perchloroethylene were vented to the atmosphere because it was regarded as cheap and believed to be harmless.
After the drying cycle is complete, a deodorizing (aeration) cycle cools the garments and removes further traces of solvent by circulating cool outside air over the garments and then through a vapor recovery filter made from activated carbon and polymer resins. After the aeration cycle, the garments are clean and ready for pressing and finishing.
Working solvent from the washing chamber passes through several filtration steps before it is returned to the washing chamber. The first step is a button trap, which prevents small objects such as lint, fasteners, buttons, and coins from entering the solvent pump.
Over time, a thin layer of filter cake (called "muck") accumulates on the lint filter. The muck is removed regularly (commonly once per day) and then processed to recover solvent trapped in the muck. Many machines use "spin disk filters", which remove the muck from the filter by centrifugal force while it is back washed with solvent.
After the lint filter, the solvent passes through an absorptive cartridge filter. This filter, which contains activated clays and activated charcoal, removes fine insoluble soil residues, non-volatile residues, and dyes from the solvent. Finally, the solvent passes through a polishing filter, which removes any contaminants not previously removed. The clean solvent is then returned to the working solvent tank.
"Cooked powder residue" is the name for the waste material generated by cooking down or distilling muck. It will contain residual solvent, powdered filter material (diatomite), carbon, non-volatile residues, lint, dyes, grease, soils, and water. The waste sludge or solid residue from the still contains residual solvent, water, soils, carbon, and other non-volatile residues. Used filters are another form of waste, as is waste water, which are also subject to regulation by the United States Environmental Protection Agency (US EPA) and local authorities.[7]
To enhance cleaning power, small amounts of detergent (0.5–1.5%) are added to the working solvent, and are essential to its functionality. These detergents emulsify hydrophobic soils and keep soil from redepositing on garments. Depending on the machine's design, either an anionic or a cationic detergent is used.
Garments should be carefully checked for foreign objects before being placed in the machine. Items such as plastic pens may dissolve in the solvent bath, damaging the entire batch of textiles. Certain textile dyes are "loose" and will shed dye during solvent immersion.
Fragile items, such as feather bedspreads or tasseled rugs or hangings, may be protected by enclosing them in a loose mesh bag. The density of perchloroethylene is around 1.62 g/cm3 at room temperature (62% heavier than water), and the sheer weight of absorbed solvent may cause the textile to fail under typical forces during the spin extraction cycle, unless the mesh bag provides mechanical support.
Not all stains can be removed by dry cleaning. Some need to be treated with spotting solvents – sometimes by steam jet or by soaking in special stain-remover liquids – before garments are washed or dry cleaned. Also, garments which have been stored in soiled condition for a long time are difficult to bring back to their original color and texture, since irreversible chemical reactions (such as oxidation) may occur over time.
The international GINETEX laundry symbol for dry cleaning is a circle. It may have the letter "P" inside it to indicate perchloroethylene solvent, or the letter "F" to indicate a flammable solvent (German: Feuergefährliches Schwerbenzin). A bar underneath the circle indicates that only mild cleaning processes are recommended. A crossed-out empty circle indicates that an item should not be dry cleaned at all.[8]
Perchloroethylene (PCE or "perc", tetrachloroethylene) has been in use since the 1930s. PCE is the most common solvent, the "standard" for cleaning performance. It is a highly effective cleaning solvent, and it is thermally stable, recyclable, and has very low toxicity and a pleasant smell. PCE is recycled by distillation at its boiling point (121 °C).
The solvent can cause color bleeding/loss, especially at higher temperatures. In some cases it may damage special trims, buttons and beads on some garments. It is better for oil-based stains than more common water-soluble stains, such as coffee, wine, blood.
The toxicity of tetrachloroethylene is moderate to low and reports of human injury are uncommon despite its wide usage in dry cleaning and degreasing.[9] Tetrachloroethylene is classified as "probably carcinogenic to humans" (Group 2A) by the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC). There is a possibility that it is carcinogenic to humans in long term, but the evidence is limited since most of the evaluated dry-cleaners had heavy smoking and drinking habits.[10] A study published in 2011, investigated cancer rates among dry cleaners exposed to tetrachloroethylene for many years and laundry workers who did wet cleaning without using this chemical as the control group, based on a total of more than nine thousand people, found that there was no difference in the cancer rates between the two groups: there was no significant increase in the incidence of esophageal, cervical, liver, kidney and bladder cancers, which were suspected to be caused by tetrachloroethylene, between the two groups.[11] The exposure to tetrachloroethylene in a typical dry cleaner is considered far below the levels required to cause any risk.[12]
It is estimated that 50% to 70% of dry cleaners in the US were using PCE as of 2012[update].[7] Alternative solvents are available, but these may require major changes in equipment, procedures, and operator training.[7] Flammable solvents may require installation of expensive fire-suppression systems.[7]
Because PCE has been the longtime de facto standard solvent for dry cleaning, there is considerable interest in finding a "drop-in" substitute solvent which could be used with minimal changes to existing equipment and procedures.[7]
High flash hydrocarbons, characterized as having a flash point higher than 60 °C (140 °F), are considered to be safer than traditional hydrocarbon solvents.[7]: 18–19 Examples include Exxon-Mobil's DF-2000 or Chevron Phillips' EcoSolv, and Pure Dry. These petroleum-based solvents are less aggressive but also less effective than PCE. Although hydrocarbons are combustible, risk of fire or explosion can be minimized when they are used properly; a fire-suppression system may also be required. Hydrocarbons are considered to be volatile organic compound (VOC) pollutants.[7]: 18–19 Hydrocarbons retain about 10-12% of the market.[citation needed]
Trichloroethylene (TCE) is more aggressive than PCE but is very rarely used today. With superior degreasing properties, it was often used for industrial workwear/overalls cleaning in the past. It is chemically related to tetrachloroethylene. TCE is classified as carcinogenic to humans by the United States Environmental Protection Agency.[13]
Liquid or supercritical CO2 is an alternative to PCE; however, it is inferior in removing some forms of grime.[14][7] Additive surfactants improve the efficacy of CO2.[15] Carbon dioxide is almost entirely nontoxic (but is an asphyxiant risk in high concentrations).[7]
The CO2 dry cleaning process involves charging a sealed chamber which has been loaded with clothes, using gaseous carbon dioxide from a storage vessel to approximately 200 to 300 psi (14 to 21 bar) of pressure. This step in the process is initiated as a precaution to avoid thermal shock to the cleaning chamber. Liquid carbon dioxide is then pumped into the cleaning chamber from a separate storage vessel by a hydraulic or electrically driven pump (which preferably has dual pistons). The pump increases the pressure of the liquid carbon dioxide to approximately 900 to 1,500 psi (62 to 103 bar). A separate sub-cooler reduces the temperature of the carbon dioxide by 2 to 3 °C (3.6 to 5.4 °F) below the boiling point, in an effort to prevent cavitation which could lead to premature degradation of the pump.[16]
Consumer Reports rated CO2 superior to conventional methods, but the Drycleaning and Laundry Institute commented on its "fairly low cleaning ability" in a 2007 report.[17] CO2 is a mild solvent overall, which lowers its ability to aggressively attack stains.
One deficiency with CO2 is that its electrical conductivity is low. As mentioned in the Mechanisms section, dry cleaning utilizes both chemical and mechanical properties to remove stains. When solvent interacts with the fabric's surface, the friction dislocates dirt. At the same time, the friction also builds up an electrical charge. Fabrics are very poor conductors, but usually this build-up of static electricity is dissipated through the solvent. This discharge does not occur in liquid carbon dioxide, and the build-up of an electrical charge on the surface of the fabric attracts the dirt back on to the surface, diminishing the cleaning efficiency.[citation needed]
To compensate for the poor solubility and conductivity of supercritical carbon dioxide, research has focused on additives. For increased solubility, 2-propanol has shown increased cleaning effects for liquid carbon dioxide, as it increases the ability of the solvent to dissolve polar compounds.[18]
Machinery for use of CO2 is expensive – up to $90,000 more than a PCE machine, making affordability difficult for small businesses. Some cleaners with these machines keep traditional machines on-site for more-heavily soiled textiles, but others find plant-derived enzymes to be equally effective and more environmentally sustainable.
For decades, efforts have been made to replace PCE. These alternatives have not proven popular thus far:
In Britain America the discovery was for long attributed to a supposed Paris tailor by name of Jolly-Belin [...] Actually the discoverer of drycleaning was not named Jolly-Belin but Jean-Baptiste Jell
The word duct is derived from the Latin word for led/leading. It may refer to:
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